Survivor / OE correct engine pics - Copo Camaro

[RS_COPO_Canuck]

Hi All - tried searching. Is there a thread with some good shots of an engine compartment. A great survivor or a correct restored would work. 

[ko-lek-tor]

Why not do a search (here and off site) for a L78 396/375, a more "common species"(lol). Only thing different from the L72 is the block, and radiator & air cleaner (on most) IIRC. There are plenty of good pics out there of 396's. There are some real good pics of a 16k mile original on the Yenko site recently posted.

[RS_COPO_Canuck]

Yes - I was thinking of typing in L78.....but my brain went on vacation. Thanks for the info!

[william]

It's old school these days but there were several COPO Camaros reviewed in period magazines. Super Stock & Drag Illustrated [I think] had an Olympic Gold Yenko Camaro; #3 and #5 ZL1s were also tested. Also a Yenko Chevelle in there. May take some searching and you will have to pay up for those issues but they are well worth it.

The #3 ZL1 feature is of particular interest as it has undercarriage photos showing it was built with the production N10 dual resonator/single muffler exhaust system. There was an interim system w/o resonators but it was Z/28 only. Most COPOs are incorrectly restored without resonators.

[RS_COPO_Canuck]

Great - Thanks - I love that stuff! I'll surf ebay etc.

[ko-lek-tor]

here is link to the L78 I mentioned. Not an RS, but good detail pics. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.314452995410366.1073741836.312607635594902&type=1
  and this site: http://www.69pace.com/2/1969engineL78.htm

[william]

Here's a link to an engine bay photo of a COPO Camaro a few weeks after delivery.

http://www.icehouse.net/camaros/slvrcopo.htm

 

[cook_dw]

Interesting to see the air cleaner seal inside out and hood insulation on standard interior.  hmmmm.

[L78 steve]

Hood insulation is on all ZL2's.

[cook_dw]

Good to know.  Also found several other cowl induction seals done the same way with period correct photos.  Goes to show never say never.  Good stuff.

[L78 steve]

Yea, to get the hood seals correct they have to be trained. I fold the top lip down around the bottom lip while its mounted on the sheet metal ring. Then close the hood and walk away from it for several weeks. Then release it to normal position and shut the hood when the flare is out and stays that way held by the hood.

[69Z28-RS]

If you can't get the new rubber seal to 'stay in position' long enough to close the hood, here's my trick.    Use a few pieces of masking task around the periphery to hold the rubber outward as it's supposed to be, and then close the hood on it for a few days.    After a bit, you can open the hood, remove the tape and it will be 'trained'...

[hgger69]

Didn´t need to train my seal at all, just turn it inside out from how it´s delivered and mount it correctly and voilà!

[m22mike]

Some of this may be helpfull, be careful using tape, I pulled some rubber loose with tape, and be careful tugging to hard on the edges.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/594265/cowl-induction-seal

Mike

[69Z28-RS]

Some of this may be helpfull, be careful using tape, I pulled some rubber loose with tape, and be careful tugging to hard on the edges.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/594265/cowl-induction-seal

Mike

I've never had that happen using 3M masking tapes, but I have had issues removing other types of tape...   Duct tape can remove paint when you remove it...  so be careful, and don't leave it on too long...