Round 2: Going to see a '68 Z/28 - Need some help w/pics

[6667ss138]

No POP definitely hurts it

Since 95% do not have POPs at this late date, I'd phrase that differently...    "If it HAD the POP, it would have definitely helped it!"..

Gary, you are right but in this instance he started out with the understanding that the POP was apart of the deal and we were all giving him advice based on that info. But once the misunderstanding came out and there was not a POP for this car then my opinion changed concerning its value.

[69Z28-RS]

I understand what you are saying.. and the 'statement of having the POP' certainly addressed most of the 'originality' issues..   but that said, if I viewed the car and inspected it.. and didn't find anything suspicious (ie. I believed it to be an original Z28 with all it's major factory parts), I would not let the lack of the documentation prevent my purchasing it...

[BillOhio]

My opinion, for what it's worth lol, over 30 with those quarters is too much. What I have seen with that damage, if original fenders are still on it, they would be suspect at the bottom with the brace. Car really needs a good looking over

[barsteel]

All -

Thanks for your input.

From the comments, it seems to me that if the numbers on the engine number (along with casting #), transmission, rear, distributor, and alternator setup check out, that would identify it as a Z/28...unless someone decked a proper block, restamped it, and restamped a transmission and rear end, and added all of the Z-28 specific parts.  Correct?

Yes, I wish it had the POP.

My hope was that I could beat him down somewhat on price based on the rust, but if he already had it bid up to $32K on Ebay, he may not go for it.

If the numbers check out, guess I'll have to decide how badly I want the car and take it from there.

If not, I wasted the cost of a commuter flight to NC and a day's worth of my time.

And so it goes....

Chris

[ggtsvnv]

Remember that it might have been bid to 32k on ebay but he will have fees to pay on ebay. So you could get it for somewhat less than 32k. Also remember a lot of fake bidding goes on, someone might b I'd to 32k and never show up with money. If you there with money ready to go I would think you would get it for less. I like the car and it reminds me of mine which I'm collecting parts for and Is getting ready for the. Rotisserie

[maroman]

If it is a real teal LL car it would be a rare one. The color as said before looks like Lemans blue.  I had a LL Z-28.

[janobyte]

Click on my user info, recent posts #7. I have a few of my date codes posted.

My Z is an O4D,   302: 0423

Your car of interest: 04A    302: 0329

All the previous posts on this thread are correct so I'm not quoting.

Bottom line is your plans for it, along with pocket depth. IMO, based on pics  (what is just on the surface), priced high, plus it's been on the market for awhile. Buddies may be bidding it up. But, if numbers check,(big in the plus column) it is a 68 Z. Investment probably a poor choice of words, but car worth keeping if done properly, with a reasonable initial purchase price.

POP ? rather have the car then visa versa, it may pop up(no pun)

[ds1]

Be realistic with your end goal.   Do you want it restored?    You are looking at quarters, outer wheel wells and paint.    Easily 10 k if you can not do the work.     As pointed out earlier, what about the lower fenders.     You can see it has been repainted and the wrong color.   All rubber will need to be replaced as well as any interior work.    If this is a maintained driver you will find suspension and steering issues.    Look at the big picture on cost.      I personally think for the money you can do better.    If it is all numbers matching that is a huge plus.    But if you add his asking price with what it will cost to restore it you can go buy a nicely done car for that.     I paid far market for the one I bought and when done I will have 30 to 35 in it.

[z28z11]

About all I'd like to add is it's similar to my '68, which is a documented car, with external sheet metal work done but in the wrong color. A lot to do from here, but I did buy it for a lot less than the your find. NOM, but has an original MO dated correctly ready to go back in.

I agree with all of the responses ahead of me - everything looks and points to it being what the seller is advertising. The only thing left to consider is the distance between what your final negotiated price and the market value of the car. If you can complete the car under the market value, I'd say go for it. Prices hold pretty steady on first gens, regardless of the economy (outside of a few fliers now and then). I don't think $32K is unreasonable, but it would be even better for less - I'd buy it unless it turns out to be a real Flintstone mobile. 

[BULLITT65]

I agree with most everything else posted. I would add if you visit the site carsonline.com:  http://www.cars-on-line.com/camaro.html  (ignore the first listing on the site for an el camino)
they have a Camaro specific page and you can compare prices and condition pics vs pics. This is different than being in person, but should give you some perspective on what you can get for the same money. IMO I think 25K or less might be a good buy. If it is currently a driver, you could enjoy it right away in its current condition (which you mentioned previously you would like to do). If you ever decided to drop another 10-12k for metal work and paint, I think the car would increase in value having said repairs.

Do your homework on this car, and do a lot of comparing to other Camaros. There may be a similar car out there for sale with the POP. The more research you do the more informed you will be. At purchase time you will feel more confident, and post purchase you will have less buyers remorse this way. Talking to guys on the CRG is a great start.

[BULLITT65]

Here is an ad for a teal blue 68 Z:
http://www.carsonline-ads.com/colhits/DailyViewCounter?cmd=redirect&id=-81076&linkURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.corvettesandmusclecars.com%2F1968-Chevrolet-Camaro-Z-28-North-Canton-Ohio-44720%2F5240550

A bit pricey, but a good example of the color.

[barsteel]

To all -

Thanks again for the opinions.  Keep them coming.

As far as my plans, I'd like to drive it for a while, maybe a  year or two, enjoy it, then tear it down for a paint and bodywork. I have enough major projects at the moment to keep me busy for the next year or two .

I'm not buying the car as an investment (I'd buy one completely done if that was the case), but I don't want to lose my shirt on it, either.  Most of the cars I've ever had I've either broken even on or made a few thousand dollars on...and yes, I've lost money on a few, too.

I'm confident that I can do some, if not all, of the metal work, and the vast majority of the prep work, so I can probably get it where I want for less than $10K.  I've also successfully handled engine and manual transmission removal/rebuild, suspension and brake rebuilds, so that's not a worry for me.

I've attached a pic of the carb and stamped code.  Buyer got back to me about the distributor.  He said that the # is 1111467, which would make it the correct distributor for the engine.

Janobyte - sorry for being dense, but what are you saying regarding production dates vs engine dates?  04D is last week of April, and a 4/23 engine date would put engine assembly date a week previous, and that would be the same case for the car I'm looking at, engine assembly date on week prior to the car's production date.  Am I correct?

As far as a final price goes, I'll go down with a $1000 cash deposit, with payment in full to follow in 1 day via bank wire transfer, or cash upon pickup, whichever he prefers.  Depending on if/how much I want it, I'll start in the $20s and take it from there.  Hopefully we can meet at a price that works.

Thanks again...

Chris

[70L34]

Nice car. My '68 Z has the original drivetrain and no docs...I'm OK with it...they are great cars and a much better value than the '69s. I would say anything in the high $20s or less would be a fair deal.

[Charley]

Great color, great project.based on what you say you can do, I would get it bought if there are no huge surprises. It looks to me like a honest car with some rust issues. You have orig. drivetrain, fix or drive. Too many cars I have looked at over the years are just dolled up crap. This looks honest. Good luck

[janobyte]

"Janobyte - sorry for being dense, but what are you saying regarding production dates vs engine dates?  04D is last week of April, and a 4/23 engine date would put engine assembly date a week previous, and that would be the same case for the car I'm looking at, engine assembly date on week prior to the car's production date.  Am I correct? "

You are not dense, but are correct. Block ,heads ,trans , rear end date codes should be close but PRIOR to the car in question's 04A. It may sound obvious, but could be overlooked. And if you research some examples of legit cars on this site, you'll see just how close dates are. Also browse Ebay and take note of the (crazy) asking price on parts....battery hold down strap/bolt and valve stem caps may be 1/2 the asking price. LOL.

 ( how's it run by the way ?)