Round 2: Going to see a '68 Z/28 - Need some help w/pics

[1968RSZ28]

Engine pad looks OK! 

Wheels are 15", and coded DE

Wheels should be stamped DF for a '68 Z/28.  The center caps are incorrect for '68, the ones pictured are for '67.

Car should have rear bumper guards (included with Z28 option).

Tachometer is correct, 6K redline.

Check the alternator, should be stamped 1100814 (a pricey item to find).  It might have been replaced as the one in the photo doesn't appear to have a deep groove pulley.

Good luck!

Paul

[6667ss138]

Price and car look good to me so far. I would move quick before someone else does.

I agree with Charley

[BULLITT65]

So is the 68 Z posted on the net, or how much exposure does it have, where you feel there may be other guys that could buy it?

[barsteel]

Update:  I misunderstood his message to me.  He does NOT have the POP, but he did say that the car has the original distributor, which from what I understand should be 1111467, and the alternator arm # should end in 814, so those are 2 additional things I can check.

The car does have a 12 bolt posi rear.  He said that it originally had 4.56 gears, but it was switched to 3.73 gears years ago.

I'm going to post a pic of the carb #s as soon as he gets it to me.

Tire rim code MAY be DF, it's kinda hard to tell.

I'm in CT, and CT is a non-title state for cars over 10 years old.  All I have to do is have a VIN check to prove that the claimed VIN matches with the paperwork I'm submitting, and I'm good to go.

I'll provide any updates as I get them.

Chris

[bcmiller]

Well I still say the price at $32K is too high.  Take a look at the rust issues.  You will have at least another $20K in it if my suspicions are true.

It is a car to buy, if you can get it for the right price.  No doubt.

[VINCE Z28]

Chris be mindful of rust repair cost... can you do all the repair work yourself, if not what is a shop going to charge? also when you see some rot, there's usually more unseen.

[barsteel]

bcmiller - Understood.  I WILL be bringing a magnet with me when I go to check it out.  The rust is a bargaining point for sure, especially in or near the rockers.

Never mentioned this since my first post, but I DID have a '69 RS when I was 17, 327/PG.  Original CT car with TONS of bondo on it, although it looked good when I bought it.  The rockers had some minor bubbling on them, but 2 years later they had grown into holes.  The rockers turned out to be full of leaves and dirt, about a bucketful when I flushed them out, so yeah, I know that rockers can be in issue.  Sold the car a year later and lost a ton of money on it.

Chris

[barsteel]

As far as rust repair goes, I had a '59 Apache a few years ago.  Cab corners where shot.  Pulled the bed, and carefully cut out the rust.  Ended up mig welding new inner and outer cab corners on both sides.  Used butt-weld panel clamps, drilled out the spot welds along the door post, was super careful about fitment, took my time with the mig, hitting a spot at a time, ground slowly and carefully, and once I was done, you couldn't tell that they were ever replaced, so I'm pretty confident that I can do a set of rockers and a rear quarter patch panel if need be.

Chris

[ZLP955]

The obvious signs of rust give you some negotiating room, but if the drivetrain and Z-specific parts (as mentioned above) all check out, I'd snap that car up. At least the current owner hasn't attempted to disguise the rust, far better than considering a car with shiny fresh paint covering who knows what?

[ds1]

This car is on the internet.  I looked at it on Racingjunk.   In my neck of the woods it is a 22k car.    You look at the quarter rust and there is hidden rot in there.    Realistically needs a good resto.    Numbers matching and POP are a great start.

[dannystarr]

This car was for sale at TC for a while by a member for 35K. I was looking at it for about a year... at the same time my butternut yellow popped up with all that I wanted in documentation. The blue one was priced 35K. And as far as I know it has no POP. Just his finger pointing to a baby z/28 written in a box on a sheet. I remember him saying it is all matching. But I steered away... without a build sheet, window sticker, protection plan booklet, and POP it's just too hard to determine on a '68. Car was then on eBay and just ended a few days ago and reached 32K. I would for sure have it verified by a professional top to bottom... Danny

[BULLITT65]

Good input Danny, very valuable.

[6667ss138]

No POP definitely hurts it

[69Z28-RS]

No POP definitely hurts it

Since 95% do not have POPs at this late date, I'd phrase that differently...    "If it HAD the POP, it would have definitely helped it!"..

[dannystarr]

I can honestly say that I wanted this car more than mine... AT THE TIME...      NOW that I have the BY car I love it and all it is    The girlfriend almost bought the blue one, but heard me talk shop about documentation. Or should I say "lack of".. Anyway, good luck, I hope it checks out and you can scoop it up. Danny