My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow

[BULLITT65]

Understood, that is a lot of Camaro money right there. Well I think things are going to take a change for the better with you carb situation, and I am excited for you to get it bolted on, and mash that pedal...

I am sure other things may present themselves as needing to be checked out or out of tune, but some of that is the fun for us Camaro owners. Good job sticking with it..

[dannystarr]

Yes, thanx everyone for offering to look for parts and keeping me in the good spirit mode. I am really getting excited about getting these carbs back. I will test them both and see which one performs the best. Hope it's the original so I can leave it on and call it good. I will test it last just in case. The Aftermarket unit will be here next Monday. And the other one being worked on in Napa, no idea yet? Will keep ya all posted... D

[dannystarr]

I was just thinking... Could this Cam have been changed in the past? Could I have Hydraulic Lifters? Guess I should have checked when I had the intake off eh.. I adjusted them as per JohnZ doing the cold 26 degree adjustment... Would that work if it was hydraulic?  Is that a good way to determine. I just didn't here that sewing machine sound when I had it running days ago. Danny

[dannystarr]

I have one rocker arm locking nut staying loose, and doesn't feel right and snug like the rest. Would like to get a whole new set and start out fresh. I think they are 3/8ths X 24. If so, where do I get them? Danny

[69Z28-RS]

The Chevrolet dealer, and probably any parts store for aftermarket ones.... and they may all be made by the same company (Dorman?)..

[BULLITT65]

If you have a hydraulic cam, it is best to adjust them while running. I have a hydraulic roller cam in my 64 C/10, and have a cut out valve cover to do the job.

[68camaroz28]

If you have a hydraulic cam, it is best to adjust them while running. I have a hydraulic roller cam in my 64 C/10, and have a cut out valve cover to do the job.

I still have the little keepers I used to put on our L78 Nova to adjust the valves when running back in the 70's & 80's.

[dannystarr]

I have to find out how to tell FIRST. I also have some valve covers I cut out with a plasma cutter and those little cheapy tin keepers. But how do I tell?... Danny

[cook_dw]

If you can push the pushrod down when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam (collapsing the lifter) and it feels springy then its a hyd.  If not then its a solid.  Base circle of the cam is when both the intake & exhaust valves are closed. 

[MO]

You can't tell by the sound they make while running? It should be pretty obvious, if not it's likely they were changed.

[dannystarr]

What are those little baby screws on the top of the Holley near the horn rounding edge? There is some little white goop covering them. One on each side. Are they some sort of bowl adjustment. Do we touch those?... Danny

[L78racer]

What are those little baby screws on the top of the Holley near the horn rounding edge? There is some little white goop covering them. One on each side. Are they some sort of bowl adjustment. Do we touch those?... Danny

those are air bleed adjustment screws. they are factory preset and should not have to be adjusted.

[dannystarr]

Found out Am/FM radio works after all. But back speaker not sounding. I tried the knobs behind each front knob but no go. Is there another trick. I thought those back knobs were for tone/bass and front/rear fader. Maybe I better check connections underneath and in trunk. But was just wondering... Danny

[dannystarr]

Discovered my wiper motor works on both high and low. Just needed a little help to get it going. Now works great. It is a 5045441. But it has a green stamp on the side that looks like 122683. Is that the correct number? Does anybody know what that stamp indicates? Is it Julian Dating for Tuesday April 30th of '68 - shift 3? Cause that would line up well with car.  Danny

[dannystarr]

Got Holley back. He cleaned corrosion in needle and seat. Re-jetted it, changed a couple springs, changed out white cam gear, bushed both sides of throttle rod, installed the Holley 125-500 PV protection front and back, changed butterflies and tested on his neighbor's '68. Called me and I went and picked it up. He spent hours and hours on it but only charged me $200. Now the throttle closes all the way and doesn't get hung up. I installed it and it runs great. Pumped it 3 or 4 times and fired it off. Choke works good and kicks right down after warm. Drove the car 200 miles and it is nice and tight. No rattles or noise. Sure can tell with only 55 thousand original miles. I reset the valves until there was a light drag at 26 in and out, but 27 would not slide in with same amount of force. Installed all new rocker arm bolts. It runs great with NO noise at all like the sewing machine sound you all were talking about. I was told by the Dist. rebuild guy that the back fire is because I did not set the initial at 18 degrees. I have it at 8. So Charlie is coming over today after work at 3:30 and we are going to drop it back in and set it up and see what happens. Maybe it will be fine at 15 or 16 or less. We will see.. She pulls pretty good with minimal throttle. What a kick in the butt it is to drive. You can watch the gas gauge go down on a long haul at 60 MPH. I installed an Auto Meter tach on top of the column. It is a little guy that fits up there nice and is out of the way. Now I can see where I am at. I am not over revving this engine by any means. I have not yet and don't want to. Nothing over 4 or 5, as I don't want any issues. My days of taking these engines to 7K RPMS are over for now. I don't have 10K for a rebuild   Just wanna drive it and enjoy it.
 Another update, pictures and a video while driving coming soon. Thanx to all of you... Danny