My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow

[TODD]

Danny;
Nice butternut 68 Z/28...
Yes you want a re-curve, so do that he should know 302 curves.
My curve is 1100 to all in at 2800 rpm. He should be limiting the slot for 12 degrees at the distributor or 24 degrees mechanical advance.
You want something along those lines.

[NoYenko]

Danny what others have mentioned is get your #1 piston at TDC, checked thru spark plug hole, then verify timing pointer and balancer mark is at TDC. The balancers have been known to slip. When reinstalling a original distributor on an original manifold the factory stamped a chisel mark on the back after they adjusted it. I have allways found the timing to be within 2-3 degrees of the recommended setting. George

[ko-lek-tor]

I was checking TDC by lining the line in the balancer with the "0" mark on the timing cover. Isn't that it? Danny

 

Danny, The advice given to checking TDC referred to checking TRUE TDC as the mark on timing cover may be off for various reasons. True TDC is checked with a dial indicator. The indicator plunger is set on the top surface of #1 piston at or near the top of the bore. rotate (slowly) until highest reading on guage is determined. Stop at this point and then you can see if the line on the balancer lines up with T.cover. There is a positive stop method also that involves some calculations to arrive at TDC.(gets a little wordy to explain). Can True TDC be determined without pulling the head?  Yes. You will need a long plunger to reach through spark plug hole. I have also taken spring off intake valve (make sure piston is close to TDC so valve does not fall down in cyl.). Gentley tap on top of stem to seat valve on piston (in case of carbon fluff) and set indicator plunger on top of valve stem. I am not too fond of unseating keepers and prefer the s. p. hole method. The positive stop is similar and involves inserting something in s.p. hole that prevents piston from reaching TDC. The crank is turned both directions and noted where the engine stops (locks up due to interference). If degree wheel or timing tape is not available, merely use the straight top edge of timing tab and make a line across balancer in each direction. determine mid-point between these 2 lines and mark it. Line it up with top edge you used to make other 2 marks and compare balancer TDC mark with t. tab mark. Make adjustments to insure TDC marks line up as needed but do not move crank position. This may involve bumping timing tab side to side with a small Ford tool (hammer) or repainting a correct line (thin and accurate please). If all else fails...fly me out there and in 15 minutes we will be done.

[dannystarr]

 WELL... I think I am going to buy a dial indicator. Be nice to have, and seems the correct way. In high school I stuck a stick down there and slowly turned the crank until I though it pushed out the farthest. TOO funny!
 Then I will take my dremel tool and make a baby line nice and clean and straight.
 
 I like the idea of the tape so I can mark it all the way around in several places. But what is the best advance for regular street driving. 32, 35, 36, 38??? I keep getting different numbers suggested.
   
 So ok, I will have the distributor re-curved. He has done 302 units before. Did my friends 302 unit and he says it runs great. And to save all old parts.
 Having the alternator rebuilt at the same place. Internally only. So as to keep the survivor visual.
 Appreciate it guys. Will update soon hopefully... Danny

[69Z28-RS]

...  in a previous post....   it was written....

"This may involve bumping timing tab side to side with a small Ford tool (hammer)..."..

Bentley..  you are cracking me up!!         

[1968 Z28]

Danny....not distributor related but could you take a few photos of the front spoiler.  Always looking for an original 1st, design spoiler.  Hard to find photos of them....most have been replaced by the larger service replacement.  Thanks in advance for your trouble.

[Kelley W King]

I know you guys have nice tools but I have used this method for years and it works. Remove # 1 plug. Stick your finger in the hole and have someone bump the engine. When the compression blows past your finger line up the rotor with # 1 wire on the cap. set the vac advance midway travel and fire it up. Then adjust timing. Try it, it works.

[janobyte]

WELL... I think I am going to buy a dial indicator. Be nice to have, and seems the correct way. In high school I stuck a stick down there and slowly turned the crank until I though it pushed out the farthest. TOO funny!
 Then I will take my dremel tool and make a baby line nice and clean and straight.
 
 I like the idea of the tape so I can mark it all the way around in several places. But what is the best advance for regular street driving. 32, 35, 36, 38??? I keep getting different numbers suggested.
   
 So ok, I will have the distributor re-curved. He has done 302 units before. Did my friends 302 unit and he says it runs great. And to save all old parts.
 Having the alternator rebuilt at the same place. Internally only. So as to keep the survivor visual.
 Appreciate it guys. Will update soon hopefully... Danny

Kelly King is correct (actually nobody who posted is wrong !) Once the piston is up....use your stick (a pencil is cleaner LOL) and rotate the crank CW/CCW just a little and leave it at the highest. Rockers should be loose. Dial indicator... well I just love tools so no foul there.

Somebody else brought up about your balancer being off (inertia ring may be going ) Correct, have it checked out at the speed shop. I had one go bad on a 400,and one higher dollar after market show out of spec on the dyno.  happens.

Reference marks are great to go by if it was never pulled ,or you marked it. Shaft may now be off in relation to the body. None the less great advise. Because...
1. your at TDC (pencil at it's highest !)
2. rotor points to #1 cylinder and #1 post on the cap
3. Alignment marks check out. Properly reinstalled. period.

Total advance? what are you guys in Cali running?? From the mild 302 to the wild 413 (throw in a few 327's) they all seemed to like 38 degrees total--with good fuel.

Better than the tape ,is an adjustable timing light, however ,little nostalgic and does serve a good purpose...for cheap.

Still say it's a shame we can't all pick up a 12 pack,head over there and get this old Z fired up !---steve, I even got a set of old big tube SuperComps that sound oh so sweet uncorked on that 302.

[68camaroz28]

Danny....not distributor related but could you take a few photos of the front spoiler.  Always looking for an original 1st, design spoiler.  Hard to find photos of them....most have been replaced by the larger service replacement.  Thanks in advance for your trouble.

And Danny, the hardware!

[1968RSZ28]

Danny,

How are you doing after the quake?  I hope all is well.

Paul  

[dannystarr]

Thanx for asking...Holly Crap Batman, VIOLENT!!  My 5th wheel trailer almost flipped over! Scared the hell out of me. I am about 5 miles from the epicenter. 3:20am got woken up from a dead sleep and just about made it out the door and it stopped as sudden as it started. Still have a headache from my heart rate being blasted up. Not fun, poor people in Napa took a good hit.

 On a much happier and lighter note... Here are some updates and pictures...

   First up, Better shots of distributor now that I pulled it. Sure hope it is original.

[dannystarr]

Better shot of Block Casting Date with Distributor removed.. Used some different lighting.

[dannystarr]

closer

[dannystarr]

Front Spoiler as requested. Hard to get good pictures, but hope this helps... Danny

[dannystarr]

front spoiler.. Notice the cut mark all the way around. Small ridges. Bet the repro ones don't have that..