My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow

[dannystarr]

brake booster

[dannystarr]

Distributor

[dannystarr]

Manual Steering Box

[dannystarr]

Speedometer Firewall Penetration

[1968RSZ28]

Danny, outstanding photos!  Keep them coming!!! 

Paul

[dannystarr]

Gas Tank

[dannystarr]

Front Rotors, Left side stamped 142 G1... What is this?

[JoeC]

congratulations that's a great find , its like a cool Camaro rat rod the way it is , with original patina

hows the Muncie shifter working on it?

they can get pretty bad with old dried out original grease in them

would like to see pics of the Muncie shifter if you get a chance

[maroman]

Danny, try a little white vinegar on the chrome. Soak a rag with it and tape it on for about 24 hours. Then use some baking soda water to neutralize it.

[NoYenko]

Danny, I saw the harness clip (retainer) on the alternator is white, are the other T shaped harness retainers on the engine harness also white? George

[little_hoss]

That car is awesome looking! Don't know what direction you are going to go with the paint but the "patina" look is really popular with old truck guys. If your surface rust isn't to bad you could CLR it to remove the rust and bring back the paint. Just do a google search for CLR patina car and you can see some results. Some of these cars look amazing afterwards. Congrats on that car though!

[dannystarr]

 Thanx Paul, I know my fellow enthusiasts want pictures pictures, then more pictures. So like I mentioned, I will make that happen. As I have spent probably well over 100 hours. This car is pretty darn original for sure. EVERYTHING is dated May '68. All the requirements of date stamping times according to CRG are correct. This needs to be stamped before this, and this needs to be with-in this many days of that and so on...

 Hey JoeC, the shifter is not bad. I saturated it with white lithium grease and just soaked it with that. It was already ok, but shifts well. I then read to not use that kind of lubricant on shifters... whoops.. I have some pictures of the shifter, they are not great cause it's tucked up in the well, but I will post them right now.

Maroman, I had never heard of that. I will give it a shot as I have 2 or 3 gallons of white vinegar. I use it to clean the combustion chambers in On Demand tankless water heaters. It gets really hot in that garage, right at 90 a couple days ago. So I better do it on a day like yesterday... 77 outside. So much cooler in garage.

George, I noticed that clip also. It is sticking out a bit and still holding on. I will be at my girlfriends garage later today. I will follow the harness and try to get you some pictures. If not, tomorrow should work.

[dannystarr]

Hey Hoss, thanx, yes it is pretty cool for sure... Nice job with the CLR. Looks like a commercial for the company.  I have to say there is spots where there is NO paint. The rust is deep. I am leaving it all as it is. I will buff it out and treat it and leave it be. I don't have thousands of dollars for a paint job. I barely had enough money to buy the water pump last week. So paints not going to happen.

[69Z28-RS]

Hey Hoss, thanx, yes it is pretty cool for sure... Nice job with the CLR. Looks like a commercial for the company.  I have to say there is spots where there is NO paint. The rust is deep. I am leaving it all as it is. I will buff it out and treat it and leave it be. I don't have thousands of dollars for a paint job. I barely had enough money to buy the water pump last week. So paints not going to happen.

Danny, if that stuff eliminates/minimizes the 'brown rust', then it would be a good idea...   if you do that, then wax the car, it will protect it from further rust, and it will look better... especially if it's garaged...

PS.  the '142' on your front hub/rotor is likely the julian date for it's production, as it's right in line with all the other original parts on your car...

[dannystarr]

HELP... Just realized I don't know what oil to run. Gotta change it as it smells of gas and surely has no viscosity left. I put a whole container of Lucas oil treatment in it, and it has been in there during the whole timing, point dwell set and carb adjustments. So now I wanna drain it and then drain it again. I bought 3 filters but have no oil. Someone mentioned to buy Jo Gibb oil at 10 bucks a quart cause it has the proper lubricants added. AFTER the flushing of it all. What is this oil?? Only 56 thousand original miles, but sat for probably 20 years or more. Also what trans and rear diff fluid do I use. And should I add GM posi additive in the rear? I wanna try to buy all this stuff in the next week or so if I can get the money together. It's killing me, I wanna drive this baby..