My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow

[dannystarr]

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[dannystarr]

I would like to just pull all the smog, but I am trying to leave this in the full survivor mode if I can.... D

[TODD]

Danny;
 Have you disconnected the vacuum line from the diverter valve that is the most common leak.
That way you can tune the car and deal with the smog later.
Yes that diverter is leaking, but it's the vacuum leak thats causing engine idle problems, so put a BB in the vacuum line and continue on.
The diverter valve failure is common, I pulled the vanes on my pump its just a great big idler pulley.
BB in vacuum line, #10 screws in the exhaust ports. 

[Kelley W King]

Danny,
I to think vacumm leak. I have seen where if you remove the carb and check both sides of the gasket for marks to insure that your intake manifold flange and your carb base are completely covering all areas might help. When I replaced my Z,s aftermarket intake with the correct unit, I had problems similar to yours. I too worked on the distributer and worked on a carb that needed nothing only to find a leak at the fitting supplying the brake booster. With a noisy engine and fan blowing it can be hard to find. I have also used duct tape to seal all openings to the engine and put canned smoke in the PVC hole and pumped compressed air in the engine. But be easy or you could blow out a gasket and cause an oil leak. Using the compressed air trick with the engine off you even hear the leak.

[dannystarr]

   Todd,
 Yes I have tried pulling the line going into the smog, as that is where I put the vacuum gauge for testing. Where do the #10 Screws go?  Picture?  With everything plugged, can I still have the belt connected for the visual, or do I need to devain my pump. Is it gonna fight to work and screw anything up?

  Kelley, I have had the carb off so many times that I can't imagine it being that. The issue is to consistent, the carb has been off 5 or 6 times, but the problem never changes. I have looked at the gasket each time and it seems to have a sealed ridge all the way around. Which would mean it has been sealed. I will replace the P/B booster hose, as it is original. I remember disconnecting the booster hose at the manifold and plugging the intake fitting, still no change. So don't think it is that Booster fitting. I have been watching videos on youtube about how to smoke test. I would imagine you could do some damage if ya pump the hell out of it. Also you don't wanna create a hole that WASN'T there before. If I do it, I will go easy. Going to shut down and completely disable the smog first. And see where that gets me. ... Danny
 

[KurtS]

Removing the belt and plugging the vacuum line disables the smog.
Working further with the smog is chasing a ghost.

[dannystarr]

OK,,,, So, I got all set up with a brand new tall Carb/Choke cleaner and my super brite mini flashlight. Pushed the car out of the girlfriends garage. Fired it up and began squirting the intake right away before things got too hot. Started in the back, soaked the hell out of it both sides... No change. Jumped quick to the front, same soaking, both sides, no change. Then started on the sides of the intake and Bingo!!    Center of intake right side, car started to die. I used a half of a can on one side only, waving it thru those 4 to 6 inches section below the side of the carb non-stop and the engine died. Let it cool off, went to the center on the other side, same outcome. Saturated it just above the valve cover and the engine died. Must really help to pull the fuel in a negative way when it's right next to the side of the carb. Gotta pull the intake.
  Solution to ALL problems, not likely. But a heck of a start. I had tightened down those bolts, infact ALL intake bolts got tightened down a while back. And those center ones were the ones that were the loosist. The water just wouldn't quite do it, was to hard to tell. But the carb cleaner did the trick. Won't be today, gotta go finish install of tankless water heater. Maybe Saturday..

 Question; I am going to clean-up the intake lightly, and surely can't have it reskinned by Jerry M. or it will look super out of place for a survivor..... But does the intake need to be resufaced a couple thousandths? Will that change the angle of the "seating" area's. Or should I just scotchbrite pad/steel wool it? ... Danny

[ko-lek-tor]

"But does the intake need to be resufaced a couple thousandths? Will that change the angle of the "seating" area's. Or should I just scotchbrite pad/steel wool it? ... Danny "

Not even sure if you are asking about the mating surfaces or overall appearance. Personally, I would not even clean the exposed area of intake unless it means raking off some crumbly stuff down in crevices, which may not exist now if you used as much carb spray as you claim. Careful with that spray! An errant spark off the dizzy or backfire and you will be roasting hot dogs and calling the Fire Dept. and Insurance adjuster. VERY FLAMABLE!


Let's keep it simple Danny. You want to have a flat true surface were the intake mates to the head. Lay a straight edge across the length after cleaning off gasket etc...
You could use a feeler like .003 and see if it goes between intake and straight edge. or you can just hold the intake at an angle and see if you can see daylight between S-edge and intake surface.
If warpage detected, then a flat medium coarse file, longer the better can be used lengthwise to intake surface to true up surface. In absense of a file or in addition, use a scrap 2x4 block and coarse paper, like 180 grit. May take some elbow grease, so take your time and take some Advil.

[dannystarr]

I mean the mating surface. I will get it all cleaned up underneath and straight edge it left to right and front to back. I have MANY files that were donated to me from a government machinist. And we will leave it at that. I probably have 50 or more! All shapes and sizes. Little baby ones way smaller than a point file, all the way up to the big ones.
 I was VERY careful with the carb spray. The whole part of the test took about a minute and a half. After I was done, I touched the exhaust manifold, it was hot, but not smok'in hot. So I felt good about the danger factor being semi-low.

 Intake came off with no issues. Just lifted right out. Pictures later....

   Can anyone recomend a good well known intake gasket set. Danny

[ko-lek-tor]

"Can anyone recomend a good well known intake gasket set.?"

I like Fel-Pro (the blue one) GM also. I may even have a vintage GM set from BITD...will have to dig.

[TODD]

Danny;
 See here: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=121095&highlight=Intake+Manifold+Gasket+Alignment+Tool

and here:
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=9663.0


Todd

[dannystarr]

AWESOME info!... Thanx.. Got area started for plugging off. Then finished plugging holes, and started cleaning. Got one side complete.... Danny

[dannystarr]

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[JohnZ]

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I see coolant in the lifter valley in the first photo - did you drain coolant before removing the intake manifold?

[dannystarr]

I have to say no, I did not. I just pulled the heater hose, and top rad hose. I will get it all back together and run it for 5 minutes, then change the oil and filter. Danny