My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow

[dannystarr]

I already have the valve covers off. Had to pull the fuel line to get to the right side without crunching it. That's what happened to the stock one, as it's all bent bad. I was looking at the valves last night while rotating, never really paid attention as a kid. Just wanted to get it together and go get another ticket  ... 17 moving violations before the age of 20! Good Times!..

 The distance from the balancer line to the dimple Center to Center = 1-1/32"... Call it one I guess. So if 3/4" = 10 degrees... Then 1" = 13.3 Degrees. What is THAT measurement in relation to timing?... Danny

[JohnZ]

The distance from the balancer line to the dimple Center to Center = 1-1/32"... Call it one I guess. So if 3/4" = 10 degrees... Then 1" = 13.3 Degrees. What is THAT measurement in relation to timing?... Danny

That dimple is meaningless - has no relation to anything.

[dannystarr]

Well that settles the dimple mystery.
 I picked up my timing chain set-up and it is a double. How do I know when to stop when pressing this on? Do I go until it stops, will it bottom out in the correct location? Will it clear cover? ... Danny

[ko-lek-tor]

Well that settles the dimple mystery.
 I picked up my timing chain set-up and it is a double. How do I know when to stop when pressing this on? Do I go until it stops, will it bottom out in the correct location? Will it clear cover? ... Danny

Yes,yes and yes...brings back memories of my first open engine surgery, yea, I was nervous, had the same questions, I was 16.

[bcmiller]

The distance from the balancer line to the dimple Center to Center = 1-1/32"... Call it one I guess. So if 3/4" = 10 degrees... Then 1" = 13.3 Degrees. What is THAT measurement in relation to timing?... Danny

That dimple is meaningless - has no relation to anything.

How about 13 degrees initial timing - at idle ?

[KurtS]

The bottom gear should just slide off.
You can't compare tooth profile etc. Just change it. I'd never mix them.

[dannystarr]

Kurt,
  Do you mean just reach down and pull it off with your hand? No way was it going to just slide off. I had to crank the hell out off it with the puller, with a 12" wrench for a holdback, then it broke loose and began coming forward. Took a lot of balls to get it to finally pop. I will install the new set-up, and my friend is going to help adjust the valves. Then hopefully finish it up this weekend if I can. Can't wait to see the difference with the new chain assembly, carb, and distributor. I hope she runs good... Danny

[dannystarr]

part way off, and off

[cook_dw]

Its suppose to be a press fit.

[NoYenko]

Danny, good story & great pictures. Usually there should be a a protective piece of steel stock to go between the crank and puller center bolt so as not to damage the threads. I don't see anything in the picture, you might want to check the threads in the nose of the crank. George

[dannystarr]

I think Kurt must have just meant that it won't be a problem, and should come right off.
It has a key, so yes I figured press fit.
Whoops, you are right. I hope it's ok. I will check the threads later today. Danny

[dannystarr]

Update on my stupidity... I screwed up the crank threads slightly without putting the proper tip in the puller. Hope I can chase them. Got 2 really nice tap and die sets. Blue point and can't remember the other, but dual layers and complete.
 
 Timing chain is in picture, but it won't line up. I pressed on the crank gear and beat it the rest of the way with deep 1-3/8ths socket. Checked the back with my dental mirror and she is buried. The timing marks don't line up. There was SO much slack in the old set-up that I can't get it into position. Need the cam to go clock wise an 1/8". Should I rotate the cam, or the crank? I strained my balls trying to get it on with the marks lined up and it just won't quite go. I was careful before when rotating to make sure to slowly come around and line it all up. But again, TOO much slack. As you can see in the picture it is a tooth off. And has a lot of play, also in that position you cant put the cam bolts in even if ya wanted to. However, not enough play to make it. Help! Didn't wanna get impatient and start to crank things without asking first. Better to move the crank ever so slightly?...

 And lastly a picture or two of my NCRS report I forgot to post months ago.... Danny

[dannystarr]

NCRS Report

[janobyte]

Did you relieve the pressure on the valves.....loosen the rockers.....like I suggested.

[ko-lek-tor]

Danny, It looks to me like you may be a tooth off, but it is really hard to confirm an assessment since the cam bolts are not installed. Install the bolts, snug them to seat gear to cam, then look at dots. If they line up, proceed to re-assemble, if not, unbolt, remove gear and chain, move (rotate) cam and top gear until corrected, then put chain back on without turning cam position.