gray phosphate

[68Zproject]

Which one?

[Mike S]

 They sure came out with much more choices since I got my can. This would be the same type: DRI TOUCH® DS Dewatering Sealant

Mike

[68camaroz28]

Thanks for the great info here. It is very consistent with other authoritative sources on the topic. I have completed the disassembly process on my '69 and am gearing up to clean and parkerize all the nuts and bolts. The one part of the process that I am still struggling with is protection of the parkerized parts. i've read about WD-40, PreLube 6, Boeshield and Rust Prevention Magic. Some recommend re-coating once or twice per year. I can't imagine doing this for all the nuts and bolts and washers on the car. Is that what others do?

Thanks,

John

PS: I do want the factory look, so spraying with clear coat is not an option.

Hi John,
The WD-40 immediately after taking out of the bath is more of a cleaning process to remove salts (those white spots that can show). I've found that soft brushing (old tooth brush works well) and utilizing mystery oil works excellent. Again, this is just what I do immediately after parts coming out of the bath. For the long term no going back to coat I've been using Rust Prevention Magic which leaves no shine or oil look whatsoever. Sixteen months ago I took a 427 cast iron alternator bracket that was rusty and placed in evaporust to obtain a bare cast iron virgin looking piece. I then coated it with Rust Prevention Magic and hung it up for a few months. Then sprayed it with water and let it sit. After over 16 months the only rust on that casting is down in crevices or tight areas I missed. Overall it works great but have found on smooth parts like metal stampings (top of a seat track is a good example) I did have some minor formation of a very light surface rust that even wiped off with the finger. Only thing you need to apply rust prevention magic is a heat gun and a brush. Google for info and have fun with the cooking class......

[clm69z28]

I parkerized quite a few of the under hood parts that were either mag or zinc phosphate, including some big parts like the hood hinges. In my  experience, cleaning and temp control are really important. I tried to stay away from sandblasting because the surface texture is usually changed with a rougher texture and detail is lost. I would start by treating the parts with Evaporust and if that didn't work, short dips in muriatic acid would usually do the trick. Then I cleaned them with purple degreaser and then placed the parts in boiling distilled water and without touching the part, transferred it to the solution. I used a barbeque and a 3/8" metal plate under the SS pan to maintain the temp as close to 190 Degrees as I could. I used the finishing oil that comes with the kit and it has worked pretty well. I am near the coast and I don't see any significant changes in the finish from new; just sort of a nice aged look.

[janobyte]

If you dunk them in a bath of WD-40 after coming out of the solution ,will that remove all the deposits ,or does it require the pressurized spray ?

[69Z28-RS]

If you dunk them in a bath of WD-40 after coming out of the solution ,will that remove all the deposits ,or does it require the pressurized spray ?

The phosphating instructions tell you to wet it down with WD-40 and wipe it clean (3 times)...  i've done it that way, and also 'immersed' the parts in WD40.   I think either way will work so long as you wipe the part and do it a couple of times.

[clm69z28]

I have not tried WD-40, I usually just rinse the parts in cool water afterward. Then I  treat it with the finishing oil that comes with the parkerizing kits. I also believe the deposits are more a function of the process and the better the process is followed, e.g. water levels are correctly, the temp. maintained  and the parts clean, etc., will help control the deposits more than can be accomplished after the fact.  

[janobyte]

Well....I'll be finding out soon enough. As it comes back apart( taking some vacation in June) I'm setting up a station to restore the fasteners ,bag and label them. Palmetto (spelling ?) offers detailed instruction, none the less I rely heavy on "been there ,done that"

Going to drag this out over the summer, really want to do final assembly starting late fall over the winter---long stretch of nasty NE Ohio weather calls for a fun project!

[69Z28freak]

Here are some parts I did with the lighter Zinc Phosphate, also treated with WD-40 or Boeshield. Parts were done about 3 or 4 months.

[68camaroz28]

One of the main reasons you clean the parts immediately is to remove the solution or you will have white spots develop. Palmetto suggests cleaning the parts to remove grease/oil, glass beading, and then within two hours start the phosphate process without handling the parts with bare hands . IMO glass beading bolts and screws does not impact the texture to any extent of causing issues but there are many parts I would not glass bead for that very reason. That is what I do but have for just a quick couple things cleaned and wire brushed which can be acceptable. Just like painting though, the final part is only as good as the preparation. I'm sure there are many ways to accomplish satisfactory results! Gary is of course correct the instructions do say spraying and wiping three times with wd-40 but the soft brush helps eliminate the three and out wiping mode. When I first started every so often even after wiping and spraying 3 times a part after sitting would obtain a white spot which is the salts mentioned earlier. That is when I found "Mystery Oil" took that off immediately so I started using it with a soft brush with nice results. Recently I was helping a friend get started with the process and he had a pan of WD-40 which we put the parts in that first, scrubbed with the brush and then into the mystery oil for a final bath before taking out and wiping down. Another key is when you take a part out spray it, dip it, or whatever immediately with the oil.
Example of sub-frame bolts after completion-

[69Z28freak]

Forgot to mention. The hood latch was done in Zinc and the bolts were done in Manganese. Shows a good contrast between the 2 finishes. Hood latch as well as the bolts were glass beaded then sprayed with WD-40 several times, then left to air dry.

[clm69z28]

69z28freak:

Those parts look really good. I will definitely try the glass bead the next time around; same with the WD-40/Boeshield treatment. Looks like I should oil them up a bit..

[janobyte]

I love the final product in the above pics " Marvel Mystery Oil" yet another application ,and I like the smell ! 

My Z is Ash Gold, not really a color that stands well by it self ,but likes blacks/grays to bring it out. (IMO).  Chrome really does not , and why I always felt Cragers didn't work on it. Compared to "mags" or the OE's.

In the days of Roman Red paint and chromed everything under the hood, it really took a back seat.

Needless to say, Im sort of excited in the near future to be opening the hood and be looking at the above...in my car. The contrast is really going to work with the color. As usual ,helpful stuff guys.

[sbmiano]

not sure if it matters to you but the spring on the hood latch should be gloss black

[janobyte]

matters and noted--thanks.