gray phosphate

[Mike S]

 hehehehe....We all are starting to sound like chefs. Better not let the ladies hear about our stove top gourmet experiences or else we will have to cook the next meal. 

Mike

[NoYenko]

I have been using this crock pot for all my small parts.  I don't know if I posted the link correctly. "Re: Correct Fasteners and headmarkings « Reply #161 on: February 02, 2012, 08:22:06 PM »"
The nice thing about this is I can leave it on my bench ready to go, takes 15-20 to warm up, been using the same solution for 6 months. Handy if you only need to do a couple bolts. George

[NoYenko]

Here's the picture. $14 at Walmart.

[69Z28freak]

Great info. Going to try it tomorrow night. Will post the results.

[68camaroz28]

I've everything ready ,and my products from Palmetto ,just have not had a chance to get out there. The quarts net a lot of product ,which per Scott can be re-used. The Manganese is mixed in more concentration than the phosphate ,but is said more durable. Hence the use on hood hinges/springs. He sends out an instruction sheet and personally answers any questions ASAP. Like one of the Mustang guys posted : dollar for dollar way cheaper than paint with correct results.



I plan on using a hot plate for small items.

Our cheap hot plate (two burners) works well in that it will only take the solution to between 180-190 degrees which is perfect and I can utilize different pans. Do like George's idea!
Two things one quickly learns, one, parts have to be prepared correctly, and two, the cleaning after the phosphate/manganese bath or you may have salt/white spots. I scrub small parts like bolts/screws with a soft brush (used toothbrush) & WD-40. Do some searches here and Team Camaro and there are some excellent threads concerning the subject.

[69Z28freak]

Luke and I decided to have a Phosphate Party tonight and we invited some of our favourite fasteners to attend. Check it out…

Step One

Organize glass beaded parts.



Step Two

Fill a pot with water and bring to a boil. We used a hot plate and it brought the water to perfect temperature in about 15 minutes.



Step Three

Then add the Parkerizing Solution to the water. We just did a batch of dark Manganese tonight. Next we will do Zink, the lighter grey colour.





Step Four

Once the temperature is around 190 Ferinhieght it is time to drop the precious parts into the magic solution.



Step Five

Here Luke cradles the virgin, freshly blasted metal. All the kids into the pool.



Step Six

We left the parts in the solution for 15 minutes then removed them and Luke sprayed them with Boeshield.



Step Seven

Then we let the parts dry for a few minutes.



Step Eight

Next Luke touches up a few parts that were a bit dry with Boeshield.



Step Nine

The final product. Enjoy the fruits of your labour. Wonderful, glistening, freshly phosphated original parts. What could be more exciting than that?

[TooManyReels]

The parts look great when finished, so please don't take this the wrong way since I know nothing about this process. What keeps the parts from returning to the kind of rusted looking parts that are shown in step seven once the oil spray evaporates or dry's off..

TMR
Eddie

[Mike S]

Hi Eddie,

   The phosphate is a good base to retard the corrosion that can develop on a unprotected part and to protect the part further you can apply either a coat of oils (I use Dri Touch because it looks dr) or paint.
I use a small model brush to apply the oil to the smaller parts (bolts, nuts, brackets etc..) and the Z-bar, alternator and water pump pulley's. I try to do it 3 times a year especially on the pulley's which get hot and dry the oils.

Mike

[Mike S]

Hi Mike,

  Thanks for the picture of your 'party'.
One suggestion I would like to make is before placing the part in the phosphate solution you can first  put the parts in water and bring to a boil to float off any oils that me be present so as to minimize the risk of blotches and also doesn't contaminate the zinc solution. The parts will then be hot and the plating process will occur much faster.
  Just a suggestion though.

Mike

[NoYenko]

Mike, nice work and good reference for future searches. George

[68camaroz28]

The parts look great when finished, so please don't take this the wrong way since I know nothing about this process. What keeps the parts from returning to the kind of rusted looking parts that are shown in step seven once the oil spray evaporates or dry's off..

TMR
Eddie

Eddie, I treat all my parts I have phosphated with "Rust Prevention Magic" as it leaves the parts in a natural looking state. I even tested it on a natural cast iron 427 alt. bracket I had treated and then sprayed the bracket with water. After three months the only place it formed some rust was in holes and crevices I had not coated. I even used it on my driveshaft!

[TooManyReels]

Thanks guys. This is all very helpful.

Eddie

[69Z28freak]

Here's a few more pics showing better detail of the result. These pics show the bolts still wet with Boeshield on them.

[jmcbeth]

Thanks for the great info here. It is very consistent with other authoritative sources on the topic. I have completed the disassembly process on my '69 and am gearing up to clean and parkerize all the nuts and bolts. The one part of the process that I am still struggling with is protection of the parkerized parts. i've read about WD-40, PreLube 6, Boeshield and Rust Prevention Magic. Some recommend re-coating once or twice per year. I can't imagine doing this for all the nuts and bolts and washers on the car. Is that what others do?

Thanks,

John

PS: I do want the factory look, so spraying with clear coat is not an option.

[Mike S]

 I use Dri Touch ( http://www.birchwoodtechnologies.com/store/rust.html )
I have a quart since the 80's and use a small model paint brush to apply it.
The site above shows gallon sizes but one gallon will last you a life time.
I apply about twice a year. It dries and doesn't have that wet look nor collects dust.


Mike