'67 Camaro Disc Brake Hardware

[Mike S]

 I've been a 'Billy Yank' all my life here on Long Island (aka: Lawn Guyland) and live "out east" among farms and country life.
I know a couple of my CRG brethren live here too.
I like the change on seasons but when I need hot weather the wife and I head to the condo in W. Palm Beach.

Mike

[upscope757]

You have definitely cracked the code...

[PURESS]

5 degree right now wind chill -8 ..tonight -15 with wind chill -26  that is only 70 to 100 degrees different  (MN)

[janobyte]

These are the ones off of Janobyte's 68 Z.  Should be the same for 67 or 68 4 piston calipers.



Heartbeat City

http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/store/product/12225/Camaro-Disc-brake-hose-brackets-pair-1967-1968/


I snagged these off the web.

Ha, answered my question...with my parts! Literally going out this morning to mount the calipers and some  front lines. Last week I got some parts off the shelf, and could not remember where the brackets mounted to. It's been close to 27 years since I replaced them with the single pistons, mind tends to forget. Since I'm at the stage: MC and calipers in black. Metering valve going out to brakeboosters. Rebuilding the distribution block with a kit from MCR. Now, was the distribution block's finish black paint, or phosphate? Appears most posts are stating paint. Want to be sure before I box parts for shipment. I really like the look of bare steel, but trying to keep this build, well mostly correct.

[Mike S]

 This was discussed recently and I think the jury is still out on this one. It may have been both ways for 67.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=14408.0
  I used my survivor 67 LOS as a reference and when removing the block form the L bracket there was absolutely no indication of paint under that preserved contact area. The L bracket did have signs of black paint judging from a thick pocket in one part which indicated the L bracket was dipped. So I soaked my block on the convertible in Evaporust and rebuilt it and kept a raw finish. I did use RPM as a preservative after applying the yellow inspection stripe on the block. The machined ends, which were more shinny in appearance, stand out from the brownish looking cast look.
If you glass bead or sand blast the part then it will have a more gray and unnatural appearance to it.

Mike

[janobyte]

Looking at it closely this morning, I have to agree with you. Clean at the mating surface. Going your route. Inspection mark and all....imitation is the best form of flattery.

[Mike S]

Hi Janobyte,

    Here is how it looks when all is mounted. The MC is semi gloss and as I understand it, the MC cores were painted black then afterwards when pulled from storage, machined. So I tried to duplicate what I felt it would look like after that process to have black paint on the body and shiny machined surfaces. Also, the pad where the MC code is stamped is also shiny being that too was machined.
  The distribution block and hold-off valve (proper name?) are raw and the front cap on the hold-off is definitively gray phosphate. At least for 67. The bolts are originals along with correct plating. I do have new valve covers but I'll put them on once I adjust the valves.
 Question: are those 2-piece hubs or 1 piece?

Mike

[janobyte]

2 piece. My originals are just in specs. ( rotors). Unfortunately, rotors only are not available, so I picked up a pair from Ricks last week. They look nice, match the OE's, mount up nice. Dead giveaway is rotor minimum is in metric and not inches. Really do not care as I no longer want to put any miles on the born with's.   My brake lines still appear in good shape, with no rust. None the less, getting all replaced. Not the correct finish, but I like stainless. Few more steps to seat the flare, but the lines will outlive me! lol. The set from Ricks is ok, bends awful close to the originals, so I'm not sending them back. They'll come out nice. Last year I did a complete line change on my boy's Silverado with a set from Classic Tube: dead on.  The drums are original to the car also, but getting replaced and shelved. Sending the hold off valve to brakeboosters for restoration.

When finished, it's going to be a trailer queen to a few events I want to attend, then time to finally go cruising again.It'll get picked apart in a few areas for not being factory correct, end of the day it's getting put together the way I want to build it. I'll hang my hat on the original exhaust,lol.

Baring any unforeseen circumstances,($$) should be putting the wraps to this early summer 17'.

Block stamping: 7 terminal side, 781 opposing side.

[Petes L48]

This was from a thread a couple years ago, however I just checked the Camaro Central site and it appears they no longer offer just the rotors

http://www.camarocentral.com/1967_1969_Brake_Rotor_Front_Disc_Rotor_Only_p/brc-634.htm

[janobyte]

Hmph, stand corrected. Had a conversation with a reputable restorer last year who said the rotors out there were not of the best quality, he didn't carry them, and would be off the market. If I were to replace, go with the hub/rotor assemblies. Did not even think to search for just the rotors last week. For all I know, they may be ok. Anyway, for 50 more bucks a side, saved some labor and kept the OE's mated.


But yea,had I knownwould have shot an order to Camaro Central.  Sorry for the mis-information.

[Mike S]

 I still have the original hub/rotor and they are now .015" below minimum so it will not pass NY safety inspection, and I don't want to skimp and risk an accident. I may likely get the 2-piece I see at places like The Parts Place tough they are pricey. For now though I was thinking of the one piece rotor to get the car on the road.
 The imported rotors use a different type of cast iron (I forget the name at the moment) and may not hold up to rough street use. But the way we drive out babies I'm sure the imports will do just fine.

Mike

[janobyte]

Yea, not auto crossing any time soon.

Since I was curious, I started looking again. Bob Harris ( Camaro Specialties) Has them very reasonably priced.$ 89.00 for the two piece, $65.00 for the one piece. Assuming integral for the 1 piece. Prices on theses appear to be dropping, probably not flying off the shelves.

He's out of  NY, maybe save you some shipping also. I was pretty excited with my progress last week, came in to order, and forgot about him!

Contact
112 Elm Street

East Aurora, NY 14052

716-652-7086

Email us:  bob @ camaros.com

[janobyte]

I looked at the date on the pic, cannot believe it has been almost 3 years since you done those Darrell. Still look great , and are on the car as of last weekend. Calipers are drying, they'll be on tomorrow. Brake Booster did the shields, I'm excited and pleased with the way the sub frame is turning out.I'll get some pics posted soon.

[KurtS]

Those rotor specs are conservative. I consider them a suggestion. With how we drive them, they would be fine.
Or looked at the other way, what's going to fail with .015 thin rotors?

[Mike S]

Hi Kurt,

  I agree about how we drive and the chances of under size rotors not likely to cause any issues. But, God forbid, I get into a serious accident and someone is seriously hurt or killed, the car will be impounded and a safety inspection conducted (at least in NY) and if it's discovered the rotors are below the stated minimum specs then it can be held accountable towards me. My defense then would be to sue the inspection station for passing it. It can get pretty ugly and complex. Most inspections stations and machine shops on Long Island that still cut rotors or drums will not pass them if it measures out to be under the specs casted into them. I figure $300 is cheaper than a lawyer 

Mike