69 upper ball joint rivets

[grit1210]

Hey guys.  I searched but couldn't find an answer to my questions so here goes.

Will a rivet with a diameter to match the factory hole on my upper control arm, such as the ones sold by HBC, fill the space of the larger diameter hole in the ball joint mounting plate upon compression/installation?  All of the after market ball joints I've seen, including the Classic Suspension ones that seem popular, are drilled at a larger diameter to accommodate being bolted on.
It only makes sense that the rivet would fill whatever void is there as it is pressed but is this still considered to meet load/force specs?

There are no stupid questions, only stupid people.  So that would make me......

Thanks

Doug M.

[Hans L]

Doug,

I bought the Classic Suspension ball joints and the corresponding rivets.  The ball joint is close, but not exact to the originals.  

I sent the control arm, ball joints, and rivets to Rare Parts for installation.   The guy there didin't like the repro rivets I provided and used his own.   Total cost to install the rivets was around $100.


Here's the contact info in case you're interested in the service:

http://rareparts.com/contact/

GLEN KNOWLES, TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE
621 Wilshire Ave. Stockton, CA 95203
800.621.2005


Results:  

[grit1210]

Hans,

Thanks for the reply and info.  Those look nice.  My car will be a fun in the sun driver, not a show car, but I'm still trying to stay as close to original as possible.   I just like the looks of the rivets better. I finally found an old thread over on Team Camaro that confirmed the 5/16" hole in the repro's as opposed to the 1/4" originals.  Do you happen to know if he sized up to 5/16" rivets and drilled out your control arms?  I'm thinking that's the only option with bolts or rivets unless one happens upon a set of NOS ball joints.  I'm not sure why I'm so reluctant to drill out the holes in my control arms, it's a lot less $$$ than NOS ball joints  , if you can find them.

Thanks again.  I wish you a Happy Thanksgiving.

Doug M.

[Hans L]

Hmmm.   I really don't remember.   Maybe call Rare Parts?  They might remember.   I just know the repro's were not used - possible due to size issues.

[169INDY]

Cheater kit from a Corvette supplier.
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-361675-lower-ball-joint-rivet-kit.aspx
I used this w/ my PST kit. a big compromise.

I like the set up pictured above better.

Jim

[Dave C.]

You need to get rivets that match the same size holes in the ball joints.  I know they are available as I have tried with both sizes.  I used to get all my hardware from AMK and know they have them available.

[NoYenko]

Doug I ran into this problem when I riveted my ball joints. I bought the bigger rivets from AMK, I believe they were listed as Ford application. The flat head is larger so I turned them down in a lathe, the stem diameter was 5/16". I have the air chisel bucking tool and a support tool you are welcome to borrow. I will post some pictures when I get back to my PC. George

[grit1210]

Thanks guys.

I hadn't thought about AMK, duh, the nuts and bolts candy store.  Pics are always nice, and thanks for the offer on the use of your tools George.  I have seen the riv-bolt kits and they're certainly an option but I'm leaning towards the rivets.

Doug M.

[DT]

I used a similar set with threaded bolts.  These are trick! The set I ordered was for 69 Camaro's.   http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid=%7BD788949E-9F1A-401E-A432-0DA66274EA3E%7D&gid=%7B67095CFD-CDB8-4760-BB63-E84E86D4831D%7D&pname=63-82+Upper+Ball+Joint+Rivet%2fNut+Set&Referer=&Alias=&ptct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&

[NoYenko]

Doug the 5/16" rivets I got from AMK are #B-10774. The heads are .620" OD vs original .500" so I turned them down. Rivets do work harden when you are setting them so you don't want to stop riveting til done. Best to practice on a couple first. Its easy to do. Here is a picture of the tool I made and how mine turned out. George

[grit1210]

Those turned out nice.  I couldn't help but notice your brake hoses, very nice.  Original, NOS or ?  I vaguely remember seeing a thread or an ad in the last year or so for hoses with the red/orange markings being produced...I digress.

I have read about the necessity to not stop the process until the rivets are completely set and practicing is good advice, thanks.

Doug M.

[MyRed67]

On my 11A66 built car I shopped around until I found correct "looking" Upper Ball Joints, then I used 5/16 in. Button Head bolts to fasten them in.  Then I filled the Hex head with J-B Weld, then sanded it smooth and painted it.  I'm not all that fussy about it being 100% original, but at a quick glance it appears original.  Here's a pic.;
 You can also see in this pic,.this is an "early" 67 Sub-frame, it has provision for J nut for the back Bumper Bracket bolt.

[NoYenko]

Doug I bought those hoses from a member here "Tommy Mathison" look up his profile and send an email. I think I found them on EBay but can't find a link. They matched my originals very close. George

[grit1210]

Thanks George.

Doug M.

[68camaroz28]

Doug I bought those hoses from a member here "Tommy Mathison" look up his profile and send an email. I think I found them on EBay but can't find a link. They matched my originals very close. George

I believe he goes by "olchev" or "oldchev" on ebay.  Someone told me recently he has no current activity on ebay. He stenciled my NOS pieces for our 68 restoration and I had posted info about them in our build thread back sometime ago.