First attempt at Zinc Plating

[janobyte]

Do the colors remain uniform during phosphate coating ? When my hood hinges came out of the blast cabinet, noticed OE color varied. Never any rust on them , just paint and undercoat overspray. Varies from dark to light gray. Springs light gray throughout. If  that's the way they are suppose to look, I'm leaving alone--but I don't know. Also is it a one time use with chemicals, once heated ? 

[Mike S]

  Hi Janobyte,

  Surface prep is THE most important factor in the outcome of the final finish with phosphate. Just like when painting a car.
I will wash a part in a degreaser first, sand or glass bead it, another round of degreaser, then I will put the parts in a semi-boiling water pre bath to float off any remaining oils (rarely none at this stage) then directly to the phosphate solution that has been preheated to 180-190 degrees. After the fizzle slows or stops or if I feel there is enough deposited then I remove the parts and run them through another clean water rinse. Quickly dry and then right to the Dri-Touch oil treatment.
  If you have any oil on the parts then it will show as blotches.
Yes, you can reuse the solution over many times until it is exhausted. I store it in a plastic container when not in use. Use a stainless steel container to heat the phosphate solution. I recommend either a copper bottom or a metal diffuser under the pot to avoid any hot spots that can lead to scale buildup at the bottom.
  The nice thing about a DIY is you save money and there is always that part you missed and now you can treat it at home. I use a Coleman camper burner in the shed so as not to bring the fumes in the house. I got the SS pots at a dollar store and also use stainless steel baskets to hold the small parts for the bath.
Try it. I think you will be pleasantly surprised how easy it is.

Mike

[janobyte]

  Hi Janobyte,

  Surface prep is THE most important factor in the outcome of the final finish with phosphate. Just like when painting a car.
I will wash a part in a degreaser first, sand or glass bead it, another round of degreaser, then I will put the parts in a semi-boiling water pre bath to float off any remaining oils (rarely none at this stage) then directly to the phosphate solution that has been preheated to 180-190 degrees. After the fizzle slows or stops or if I feel there is enough deposited then I remove the parts and run them through another clean water rinse. Quickly dry and then right to the Dri-Touch oil treatment.
  If you have any oil on the parts then it will show as blotches.
Yes, you can reuse the solution over many times until it is exhausted. I store it in a plastic container when not in use. Use a stainless steel container to heat the phosphate solution. I recommend either a copper bottom or a metal diffuser under the pot to avoid any hot spots that can lead to scale buildup at the bottom.
  The nice thing about a DIY is you save money and there is always that part you missed and now you can treat it at home. I use a Coleman camper burner in the shed so as not to bring the fumes in the house. I got the SS pots at a dollar store and also use stainless steel baskets to hold the small parts for the bath.
Try it. I think you will be pleasantly surprised how easy it is.

Mike

Thanks, I'm going to start this weekend following above-verbatim.

[Camarocards]

I just completed my lower hood latch assembly using the Palmetto phosphate. I'm very pleased with the results.

[Mike S]

 That looks great, Bob. After a few years it will start to turn to a nice greenish/gray hue.
What did you use for a container?
How did you finish the latch return spring?

Mike

[Camarocards]

Thanks Mike. It took me a while to find a big enough container but believe it or not I finally found a 21 quart stock pot at Walmart for $22 that was just big enough to handle the whole latch assembly. It has a ceramic type finish which is important since you don't want to use a container that will wind up being coated with the phosphating solution (e.g. galvanized steel or aluminum). With a container this size just be prepared for a long heat up time (about 30 minutes) to bring it up to the proper phosphating temperature (approx. 200 degrees F).

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Granite-Ware-21-qt-Stock-Pot-with-Lid/17165786

I used the Palmetto zinc phosphate solution on the assembly which gives it the proper gray appearance. For the two springs located on each side of the assembly I used the Palmetto manganese phosphate solution which results in a more darker finish, almost black in appearance. I'll try to snap a few pictures tomorrow to show you the end result.

Now if I can only find a big enough container to phosphate the hood spring assembly I'll be a happy guy. 

[Camarocards]

Mike - Just a quick follow up from my previous post. Attached are a couple of pictures of the springs that I used the manganese phosphate on. As you can see, the manganese solution produces a slighter darker finish.

[Mike S]

 That looks very good, Bob. The springs are a nice touch to show the details.
Is that pot you use large enough to hold a Z-bar? I may go to the store and get the same one if it looks like it will work for that.

Thanks!
Mike

[Camarocards]

Mike - I don't think it'll be big enough for the Z-Bar. The pot measures 9 inches deep by 13 inches wide. This is the problem I'm having with the hood spring assembly. I haven't found a pot large enough to handle them unless you pay an arm and a leg for a large stainless steel one. For the price you'd pay for a pot that size it would be cheaper to send the part out phosphating. I thought about getting an immersion heater and using a heavy plastic type container but the cost of an immersion heater that will go up to 200 degree F also gets very pricey.

[janobyte]

The Eastwood spray finishes make a car restoration look cheap, IMO.
Aside from chrome, home plating for zinc and phosphates (Parkerize) is very easy and affordable for DIY.

Mike

Also unacceptable with the Mustang crowd (points deducted )

Same issue with the Z bar ,I'm assuming you are talking about the RS hood release, also hinges are tall--may have figured it out. Looking around my shop today right in front of me is a SS large square pan ( 6-8 " deep ,didn't measure) I use under engines when they are on the stand. The base for a turkey fryer would work perfect underneath and kicks the BTU's to raise the temp. It can be turned down once 200 degrees achieved. Point being ,alternatives vs. tall round pans. Emailed the owner of Palmetto yesterday questioning if parts can be finished in 2 steps also.

May be a mute point because I'm still debating on refinishing them at all and just oiling . Mines not 100% uniform from the factory, but VGC. I'm really excited about doing the small parts--next week. Shooting the underneath of my F250 with POR 1st. Moving at a snails pace with the Z ,but progress none the less.

[Mike S]

 The Z-bar I meant was for the clutch.
My hood hinges and RS hood striker w/large handle were done in the 80's and still look great though they now have the olive green/gray appearance which the phosphate coating will change to after a few years. The Z-bar and clutch push rod didn't survive as well so I'm looking to redo that.

   Speaking to my friend, he said he knew someone who used an old rectangular stainless steel kitchen sink he found in someones trash and used that for larger parts. He must have made some sort of plug for the drain but the idea sure sounds good and not as costly.
Time to travel around the neighborhood on recycling day! 

Mike

[janobyte]

Ahh , wasn't thinking in that area  Glad you mentioned it because while the kettles cooking..

[68camaroz28]

Mike - Just a quick follow up from my previous post. Attached are a couple of pictures of the springs that I used the manganese phosphate on. As you can see, the manganese solution produces a slighter darker finish.

That works well in giving the attaching screws/bolts a little different look as different suppliers had different shades of phosphate to a degree.  As you have found different materials react differently to outcome in color/shade but I try to work that in whenever possible so things do NOT look the same shade. Nice work Bob........

[janobyte]

Product came in yesterday from Palmetto , included was a page each of detailed instruction ,adding what has been tried and proven by you guys, I'm really looking forward to start this weekend with some bolts first.

What also arrived yesterday were my parts from "Red Gorilla Restorations" even mailed some change back ! They look great , better than the pics. Even more important to me is another guy out there who not only can be trusted with your irreplaceable parts ,but treats them with the same detail as his own---speaks volumes. I've followed this site many years( almost since it's inception" before becoming active . I've noticed a pattern of the same people--always positive and quick to offer help. Sending my parts out to Darrell was sort of like "paying it forward" good luck in your endeavors ,use me as a reference.

[cook_dw]

Product came in yesterday from Palmetto , included was a page each of detailed instruction ,adding what has been tried and proven by you guys, I'm really looking forward to start this weekend with some bolts first.

What also arrived yesterday were my parts from "Red Gorilla Restorations" even mailed some change back ! They look great , better than the pics. Even more important to me is another guy out there who not only can be trusted with your irreplaceable parts ,but treats them with the same detail as his own---speaks volumes. I've followed this site many years( almost since it's inception" before becoming active . I've noticed a pattern of the same people--always positive and quick to offer help. Sending my parts out to Darrell was sort of like "paying it forward" good luck in your endeavors ,use me as a reference.

I truly enjoy helping others with their restorations.  It gives me pride to say that I was responsible for something on a beautiful car.  I guess it was something my father implanted in me.  Thank you for giving me the opportunity to do work on your Z.