Brake booster removal for 69 camaro

[nlpirr]

This is going to sound really stupid but I'm going to upgrade my drum to disc in the front only. the brakes will be delivered in 10 days so I figured I would pull out old articles and get he ball rolling. I disconnected the master cylinder and booster but the booster wont come all the way out.

do I need to get under the dash and disconnect any part of thre brake pedal to the booster. I cant find any article that addresses this..everything is simply telling me to unbold the booser and take it off of the firewall. it s not that easy ?

anyhow, I didnt want to yank or force the booser off.

I'm having a close friend do the actual conversion and show me how when the parts come in next week,

any help to get me started would be great. maybe point me to a good tech article. i have read them all..i think??

nick p.

[camaro cat]

Yes, under the dash attached to the brake pedal is a clevis and pin  that you will have to detach. This is the other end of the rod I am sure you can see coming out of the back of the  booster. Shouldn't take long or be hard.

Loren

[nlpirr]

thats what I figured but was not sure if there was somthing i was going to screw up.

thanks for the tip..

Nick p.

[viking]

I have just complete the same conversion on my 1968 Camaro.  Under the dash on the brake pedel assembly are two holes, the upper one is where your manual brake rod now connects, and the lower hole is for the power brakes. You may experience problems removing the the pin from the upper hole as it is enclosed in the brake/clutch mount housing, but this is easlily overcome by removing the pins that holds the btake peddle in place and lowering  the pedel enought to remove the clevis and pin , then re-install the brake pedel.
When installing the power booster you need to ensure that you adjust the rod going from your booster to the brake pedel to the correct length so as to not damage the power brake booster. A dry fit does not take a lot of time but it is time well spent.
Also  the power booster moves the master cylinder out from the fire wall  you may need to have some new brake lines fabricated as as everything fit properly.

[nlpirr]

Viking,

Thanks for th heads up. The pin was a bit of a pain but came off after I made sure it was only secured by a small clip. I broke out the spec manual I have. I got a dVD last year that has been the best 13 bucks I have spend so far... In terms of adjusting the rod, i'm gathering that the new rod will be simular as the old so all I have to do adjust form it.

how do you know how mush is too mush and it wont damage the booser?  I bought pre bent lines with the kit so hopfully that solves som line issues I'm sure to run across.

NP

[viking]

If you are using the same power brake booster there will be no need for any adjudtment as you will just have to re-install it with the same rod and clevis. If you are installing a new power brake  booster, take the measurement of the rod and clevis on your old booster and tranfer this measurement (total length) of the rod to your new booster. The rod included in the kit are universal and need to be set-up to the individual vehicle. When you are connecting the clevis to your brake peddle, the pin should go through the brake peddle  without having to compress the rod into the booster. All your  connections needs to completed prior to hooking up your  vacume  line to your booster and starting up your vehicle.  You may have to adjust yor brake light switch.
Good luck

[mrdetails]

Location of the bracket that supports the conection of the hard line to the rubber hose, is on the side of the sub frame on drum brake cars and on the top of the sub-frame on disc brake cars. You will have to run power drum brake lines for the front, or purchase and relocate the brackets.
Good Luck