Jimbo, I would not recommend dyeing the top. I am pretty sure the finish on the top is waterproofed, so the dye may come out blotchy. Also, the top going up and down might wear through the dye after a while. I recommend replacing the top. I have replaced a top, you need 2 people, plenty of time, warm weather, the Fisher body manual, a good stapler (air would be the best) and plenty of patience. It took a buddy and I many weekends to get it done in a heated garage in the winter. You have to have the top frame PERFECTLY adjusted to the windows before you start. Once in place you cannot adjust the frame anymore or you put wrinkles in the top. Other than that, putting s top on is only staples, screws and contact cement. the hardest part is to get it centered on the frame and work the wrinkles out (follow the manual!). One of the trickest parts is the rear trim sticks, those 3 layers (well liner, rear plastic and top) on the corners was a bear to get right. But if you staple the well liner first, then the rear plastic portion and get that tight (test fit the top latched) , then you staple the top.
also get the rear top well stainless polished first, make sure your top drip pan is solid. You cannot get to those items once the top is installled. Also make sure your trim stick screws and holes are in good shape. You dont want the screws to no hold AFTER you have the top finished and are tighening the trims sticks for the last time.
Luck!