Where to have master and calipers rebuilt?

[dannystarr]

I am finally reading to send in some parts for rebuilding. I have read many responses to this question over the last couple years. I want to have my Master Cylinder and Calipers rebuilt. Light cleaning and inside gut rebuild ONLY. No exterior finish work. Just like when I did my distributor and alternator. I have seen many good and bad revues of "White Post" online. A lot of people saying the employee's have changed, people have passed away over the years, new people in charge and nobody takes the pride any more in their work. And that they just pump them out now and stay busy because of the name.
 Lonestar does not rebuild with brass interior parts, and I don't know if I want stainless....DO I?

 I would like a company in or near California that has a good rep. Anybody know of a place?

 I would consider shipping anywhere in the US.. IF I can get a good company to do the work. That has CRG and TC members approval.
 Thanx... Danny

[169INDY]

http://hagensautoparts.com/

westcoast

[TODD]

Danny;
 I had Steve Gregori at brakeboosters.com do mine he's local in Sanger Ca.
Excellent results.

Todd

[dannystarr]

Read the whole site of Steve Gregori.. He doesn't rebuild calipers, or masters. He is a booster/plating guy. You have to have your master rebuilt before you take it to him... And it seems that Hagens place sleeves with stainless. I think I am right back where I started. Anybody else ? D

[TODD]

Oops, misread your question. You are correct seems the bigger guys just re-sleeve them. I had ASL do mine years ago but they're long since out of business. I would think there would be lots of local autoshops that could handle a hone rebuild. Heck that's easy enough to do yourself. I sleeved my master as it had too much bore corrosion. The calipers I just honed and put a new kit in.

Todd

[69Z28-RS]

68 Calipers are like Corvette calipers, and many many thousands of them have been rebuilt with stainless steel sleeves to prevent the rusting issue in the bore that caused the originals to leak.  I've had several sets rebuilt over the past 25+ years (by Lonestar) without any subsequent issues.  When I did mine, Lonestar took my original calipers, rebuilt them and returned them to me (so I could keep the original dates/codes).  Not sure if they still will do this?

I've had Whitepost do a couple of Master cylinders for me (for a '60 Corvette and for my '69 Z28).  I 'wanted' stainless steel at the times, but White Post only does them with brass sleeves.  They could not adequately explain to me that brass was better and if it is I do not know the answer, but I'm sure it (brass) is easier to work and machine than stainless (which I suspect is why they use brass).  White post also recommended against use of silicone brake fluid, but again without adequate reasoning.  I've had silicone brake fluid in a couple of cars for over 25 yrs without ANY subsequent issues or rebuild work necessary.  I prefer it for cars that are seldom driven.

[dannystarr]

Ok thanx..
 I would say there is no way I would send an item if I wasn't getting mine back. Tag them or stamp a little baby initials in them some where. It's not that tough to keep track. I think Stainless is too rough on the moving parts compared to brass. But that's just a guess. I found a place in Sacramento, so we will see what they say Monday. Anybody else wanna chime in on the Stainless/Brass, or if you have a place that would be great. .. Danny

[bayfritz]

I had these guys do a master cylinder a while back. Very happy with the outcome and the turnaround time.

http://www.applehydraulics.com/brakes.htm

[BULLITT65]

Danny there is a Power Brake Exchange in San Jose that does master cylinders and boosters. Says they also do calipers. I brought my master there and watched them rebuild it in about 20 minutes. Nice guys small shop.

[MO]

Don't be concerned about using ss sleeves; they are more durable, will last longer and you (or anyone else) won't know the difference. I think the hard part for you will be finding someone that will rebuild your parts and not remove the original patina. Parts are generally thrown into parts cleaner vats before being rebuilt and there goes the original look. Use a reputable place like Lonestar (there are others, but I have experience with them), and you will get your original parts back; and talk to them about saving your finish.

[BULLITT65]

If you got the time you could watch them being rebuilt at (Power brake Exchange) just to make sure they wouldn't get misplaced.
If it were me thats what I would do. Things get lost so easy. I have dealt with plating shops, powder coating places, and numerous others, no matter how you tape it or mark it, it will get lost. Unless you put a Lo-jack on the parts, it is a lost cause with most places. If they don't lose at least one piece , consider yourself lucky.

[Stingr69]

I had these guys do a master cylinder a while back. Very happy with the outcome and the turnaround time.

http://www.applehydraulics.com/brakes.htm

Apple Hydraulics is who I have used.  Brass sleeves will outlive you and your children.  They return it to you looking like new.

I endorse the use of DOT5 fluid if you are replacing all the rubber pieces in the brake system at one time before you change over the system to the new fluid.  Old DOT-3 or DOT-4 will have soaked into the old rubber pieces and it contains moisture.  Moisture can leach out of the old rubber and is bad for the system. Moisture causes corrosion and can cause high temperature brake fade. Silicone DOT-5 will not absorb moisture.  Some people do not like it for autocross but if you have a classic that gets driven only rarely or occasionally, you should give DOT-5 some consideration when you have the system apart for an overhaul. You may never need to mess with the hydraulics ever again.