67 327 motor restart

[67rs327]

Q: I'm working thru the external mechanicals (fluids, hoses, rad cleaning, etc) of my L30/M20 that was in storage for 28 years. Have it running good but now thinking - should I consider doing anthing with the oil pump?(has good pressure on the gauge). What else should I consider? Running good like I said- but I've been taking it easy & running for a few minutes to maybe 10-15 minutes at a time. No rush - would like to drive a little as i put together a restoration plan. Thanks

[69Z28-RS]

I know of no reason to suspect the 'oil pump' might fail.   

Have you ever seen the insides of a chevy oil pump?  they are very simple.   If it has oil in it, it's self lubricating, and if it has good pressure, then it's working as it should.   About the only issues I've ever heard of with a factory small block chevy oil pump, is the pickup coming out of the pump, and the probability of that in a street car has to be infinitesimal...

Run it til the oil is hot and well circulated, then drain the old oil (check for foaming or water?).. then fill with new oil.... make sure you have enough, but not too much..

[z28z11]

Run it til the oil is hot and well circulated, then drain the old oil (check for foaming or water?).. then fill with new oil.... make sure you have enough, but not too much..

I agree with Gary - I would also recommend you use an oil that still has the zinc and phosphorus additiives, like Rotella or one of the specialty oils from a cam manufacturer /aftermarket. Flat tappets don't like the newer oils -

Regards,
Steve

[Kelley W King]

I recently started an engine that had set since 06. Icould not read anything on the dipstick even after adding oil. My haste got me and I tryed to start it and bumped it then it locked up. I pulled the plugs and found engine oil in the cylinders. Having come to my senses I drained the oil pan to find several gallons of water. New plugs and oil and I have drove it several hundred miles with no problems except an occasional lifter sticking.