I am trying to get some opinions as to wether my original GM '68 subframe is repairable or beyond hope. This is a first time restoration project for me and I am learning as I go. I just got the subframe stripped of all it's components and I found more damage than I was expecting!
I lost a good part of my original body when I got the shell repaired and am doing my best now to save whatever original parts that I can now as long as the cost doesn't get out of hand or I would have to sacrifce any structural integrity. I know getting the frame sandblasted or dipped would give me clearer picture of it's condition. I don't want to do that first though if it's already a lost cause. I am going to list the problems both structural and cosmetic and provide a Photobucket link with some pictures: http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t386/daven1256/
Structural: 1) The four main mounting holes are shot. ( I know this is repairable )
2) The drivers's side coil spring pocket is starting to rust through right where the top of the spring seats. I don't know if it rusted from the top down, the bottom up, or both. It's so crusty on both sides, it's hard to tell. This scares me the most!
3) The upper shock mounting hole on the drivers side has enlarged slightly and the metal thickness at the hole thinned out a little bit.
4) Most of the outer and inner surfaces of my frame have shallow rust pitting. If there is pitting, then there is some material lost which would mean some loss of strength. I don't know if this is an issue or not
Cosmetic: 1) Again the pitting on the ouside. ( I know this can be smoothed with body filler. )
2) Four of the slotted holes on the outside surfaces towards the front end are pulled outward and distorted from transport truck tie downs.
3) The bottom of the main cross member is caved upward slightly. Probably from jacking it up there. About a 1/4 in. in the center.
4) The bottom surface of the driver sider rail, between the firewall and the under the seat mount, is caved upward slightly also. About and eighth inch in the middle. Again, probably from jacking.
5) The factory welding is about as sloppy, messy, and ugly as you can get!
I did my best to check the subframe dimensions against those shown in the '68 Fisher body manual. Some of the dimensions shown are hard to check because you can't run a measuring tape directly from hole to hole because there is stuff in the way. I rigged up a way to do it but I am sure there was some room for error. The difference between my dimensions and the factory dimensions ranged from 0, 1/16, 1/8, and 3/16 inches at the worst.
So in the end, I want to put a structurally sound, cosmetically nice looking subframe back under this car. Preferably, the one that came down the assebly line with it. Can any or all of these things be repaired or is time to find a replacement in better shape ?
Any comments are appreciated.................Thanks...Dave
http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t386/daven1256/
