Acceptable Level of re-build

[Beans]

OK so here I go. No doubt this question has been asked several times in the past but here goes anyways! I have to do some engine work on my 68 - 327. We beleive it to be an original L30 M20 but am having difficulties in confirming the engine to the car, (engine stamp pad issues) but it has the saginaw trans and correct rear end. All date stamps, engine, transmission, rear end, line up to be original to the car. The heads are correct and I also have the original intake and carb and they to are correct. So, all in all, that is why we believe it is all original to the car. We will of course discover more once we are inside the block, but that's a story for another day.

I guess what I am struggling with is how far does one go with the rebuild on the engine and keep it within acceptable limits to being "original". I would of course like to get more HP out of her while keeping it a nice cruising car so would like to be in the 350 - 375 hp range when done.

I think I read somewhere one time that you can alter the engine componets and still maintain it's originallity. What would that mean exactly? As an example, the car now has a Edlebrock Performer intake and carb, I have put on a MSD ignition system on her...... is that still "acceptable" or is it now considered modified? I would like to put a different cam in it, (wanting something a little lumpy!) what would that do to the originality of it?

I realize that it all boils down to what I want with the car, but in all reality one must keep the overall value in mind to. I can see making significant changes to a car that doesn't have many, if any, of the original components to it, but if in fact this is a true L30 M20 wouldn't I be better off keeping it as close to original as possible?

I would appreciate any thoughts you have on all of this and in particular, (For the basis of this discussion let's say I have a true L30 engine)

What would I need to do to get it up to the 350 hp while keeping it as original as possible, or within acceptable standards?

In terms of value, would it be better to keep it all orignal or would some modifications be acceptable?

Thanks guys I appreciate your input

Kendell

   

[69Z28-RS]

If you modify anything (that is obvious) then it is 'modified' for judging purposes, even if it still retains the 'factory original block and other major components.
I've never owned a saginaw trans car, but from all I have heard there would be little point in having 350-375 hp, if you had to drive it sedately enough to 'keep the saginaw alive'.   Saginaw trans aren't built strongly enough for that HP level, or anything close to it, or I'm sure GM would have used them throughout their lineup...
If the car was mine, I'd put all the original components back in place, and 'tune' the engine for economy, rather than power..  so you can drive it more..  '68 Camaros are unique enough in their own right to have to feel that you have to have 'mucho hp' to get any attention..

Just one man's opinioin,

Gary / 69 Z28-RS

[Beans]

Gary,

Great points! Yes I have read that the Saginaw's were weak and not many have survived all these years. As you say putting all that HP in would certainly push the limits on the tranny. If I blew that out then the car wouldn't be a true L30 M20!!

Thanks Gary I agree with what you are saying.

Kendell

[Beans]

Gary,

I think you have just confirmed what my gut has been telling me all along!! I just needed someone to tell me the facts!

[69Z28-RS]

Good luck on it... 
PS>  327 are very good engines, with a great balance of horsepower and torque (IMO).  I'm not sure what cam your engine has in it, or which carburetor, but I'd only think about changing the cam (to operate best - most efficiently - in the rpm range you drive most in, and also adjust jets/pumps etc in the carb for efficiency.   With those things, your gas milieage could greatly increase over what I suspect you see now.   If you did that along with potentially changing your rear end gearing, you might be very surprised how good the performance, and mileage could be..
The guys on this board, or the TC site, with experience with your engine could best advise you on the most effective changes alofor your engine combo (that are hidden from being obvious as a 'mod')... 

Gary

[Beans]

Gary,

Yes the 327's are good engines. I'm not sure what cam is in it currently but would suspect it is original. I have only owned it for 1 year and as far as I know only the top end had been done some time ago. What do you think a guy should put in it? I don't race it, just cruise mostly, but do like to accelerate it thru the gears once in a while..... like most of us I presume! Just like the idea of a little lumpy when idling and a nice deep rumble thru the exhaust when driving. I was thinking of a flowmaster exhaust system with maybe a little bigger set of headers. What do you think? It still has the stock 12 bolt 3:31 ratio, positrac rear end. What gear ratio would you suggest?

I'm not overly concerned with gas mileage...... at least not now just having to much fun cruising around on nice summer days!

Kendell

[Charley]

If it were mine I think I would patiently wait for a good hot rodded engine to come up for sale that makes the kind of power you are looking for and save the orig engine. Everybody is going to the newer LS style engines so the traditional smallblocks are getting cheap. Cheaper than you can build one for. Probably also get a great deal on a Muncie 4 speed to go with it. Just tuck away your orig parts. You can always put them back in.

[mopar346]

Changing one significantly visual part changes it from original to modified.

I agree with Charley, put your stuff away to protect it. If you want to go the original route but with more performance, go day 2 style. Build a solid bottom end, get your heads or another set worked a little, call the cam manufacturer of your choice with all the specs and have them suggest a cam. I like a mid range gear like a 3.55 (I'm a Mopar guy), so I might be happy with a 3.31, a 3.73 might be a little deeper than I would want in a cruiser, really depends on the tire heigth. I would switch to a M-21 and put the Saginaw away. The big thing in my veiw is if it is an all original L30/M20 car then originality will matter again at some point, so all of my mods would be designed to be reversed in a weekend. As for for your current mods, my fair is that when you did the MSD you drilled a component to mount the box, those are the kinda things that cant be reverse easily.

I'm a big fan of the day 2 thought process and with the thins they are doing in F.A.S.T., originality and extreme performance are no longer separated.

If it's not original all beats are off, build it like you want it, but if at all possible try not to cut/damage the body. I.E. tubs, hacked up tranny tunnel or firewall.

Just my thoughts.

[Beans]

Thanks guys, great input! Now all one has to do is make a decision!