Sand blast or acid dip?

[sixt9x33rs]

I am at a cross road with my restoration. I need to either sand blast or acid dip my sub frame, rear end, upper and lower control arms. Maybe just glass bead my control arms. Does any one have any experience with acid dipping these parts? The cost to acid dip all parts is around $350 vs. $150 for the sand blasting. The reason to acid dip is to get the surface rust from inside the sub frame out. The parts are in pretty good shape over all.

Thanks for the feedback.

[Sauron327]

That depends if you want to have the frame e-coated or not. If you are not then a chem. dip does nothing but leave bare metal inside the frame. But it will leave you with a smooth surface from which to work. Sandblasting will leave a texture which you will have to sand lightly (Depending on the finish you are trying to achieve.) prior to application of epoxy primer. Either way we hope it is highly unlikely it will rot out. Frames I've done 24 years ago still look great. Your intentions with the car and how you will use it will determine what avenue to take at your crossroad. Scott

[77thor]

I agree with Sauron327..... E-coat is also a dipping process and will cover the bare metal inside the frame....
so acid-dip if you iintend to E-coat.

[sixt9x33rs]

I will also e dip the frame. E dip is the process that helps the frame from rusting right?

I intend to drive the car but not in the rain unless I get stuck in bad weather somewhere. This is not a trailer queeen but a 36K mile car that I intend on driving. I will re install all the original interior once I get the car back.

The reason I wanted to dip the car was to protect the inner sub frame. Is this a real concern if the car is not badly rusted? One thought I had was to use some sort of tool and get POR-15 inside the frame rails.

Your comments are appreciated.

[Sauron327]

 Yes to first question. Same process used for body shells and the like. Cost vs time factor. Does the price include the dip. Will you be doing the prep and paint if you sandblast? Paint and supplies must be added to balance sheet. IMO it's not a major concern regarding the inside if not badly rusted. If you feel so inclined then POR-15 the inside. I have been caught in torrential rainstorms and one frame of mine looks fine after 13,000 miles and over 20 years.(Sandblasted, epoxied and semigloss blacked--no extensive treatment to inside of frame was excecuted) Others besides this look just as good. Variables aside, you'll probably be dead before it looks bad enough to re-do for a driver.  Scott

[firstgenaddict]

Lawrence... what you do is use either por 15 or self healing body wax down the inside of the frame rails... use a body schultz gun with a long tube on the nozzel... plug the end of the tube... and poke / drill small holes around the circumference of the tube and when you pull the trigger it creates a fan pattern which when you draw the tube out of the frame rail it will fan the inside of the frame rail with the protectant...

[sixt9x33rs]

Thanks Guys I appreicate the feedback.

Scott I agree...probably will be dead before it makes a difference.

James....I will call you to discuss further.

Thanks!

[Brandan]

Be careful if you "acid" dip the car......the liquid will get into every nook and crany in the the car, exposing all metal to the outside.  You should definately re-dip in a rust preventative (not spray on)...... I looked into this when I started my 67.  I choose to strip and treat, ospho'd and then por-15.  A little overkill but I sleep better at night. 

hit the link on the bottom of the signature under project below to see the process....



Brandan-

[sixt9x33rs]

I am going to sand blast the chasis, epoxy primer everything, then POR-15 the inside of the frame.

Thanks!