302 Recreate for a 69, "CE" or not? Year?

[69rad]

My June X77 car does not have the original motor.
I have a NOS 1178 crank, good set of later 69 186 heads and 472 intake.

What block do think might give the most resale value to the car?

Obviously I need 3970010 casting 4 bolt main.
I have a 1973 "CE" block, but was thinking that I shroud find a 1969 "CE" block cast July -Sept. but those sell for a fortune.
Would an unstamped, May of 69 block representing a correct date be better for the value of the car?  I also have a Sept of 69 truck block as well in my possession that I could use.

Would the 1973 "CE" block be the same difference as far as resale value of the car?


What do you guys think?? 

Thanks!

[william]

Engine is either original or it isn't.

Doing a 'restoration' 302 may give it broader appeal but won't do much for the value.

[69rad]

To rephrase, 
Which of the listed blocks may "appeal" to a broader buyer base?

Opinions on that?

Thanks!

[KurtS]

5 year warranty = 69-74.

[69Z28-RS]

69Rad:   The '73 CE block (if 4-bolt main), and with the other '69 302 pieces would give you the 'best story' IMO,  if you're preparing the car for 'judging'..  but your post seems more oriented towards RESALE value.    Do you plan to misrepresent the engine in your car as being 'original'? or 'more original'??   Do you understand that to do that for a Sale is FRAUD??

LYING is always a mistake, regardless of the situation, but is ILLEGAL when accompanying a sale...    That's just my advice!

[169INDY]

Buildout the "CE" then the larger problem is ALL the other (Correct) components related to a genuine 69' 302 motor.

[william]

I did not get the impression that 69rad was planning to misrepresent his car. He just wanted direction from the learned folks on the site.

There are buyers at all price points and a period correct 302 will help the car be as good as it can be.

[69rad]

NO, 69Z28-RS

I DO NOT intend on misrepresenting my car!!!

What gives you that idea?  I guess if I was, would I be asking about a "CE" block or an unstamped block??  I'm definitely leaning away from an unstamped block, but if one of my truck blocks needed decked I figured I'd have it go all the way across the stamping.

No, I'm not preparing it for judging, just figuring the best use for my NOS crank and the fact that I know a 302 would be a better fit for the car than one of my LT-1's.

Maybe I'll just get rid of it all as a "restoration kit".

Thanks for your input.

[GMAD_Van Nuys]

69rad - There is a 3970010 4-bolt block for sale on eBay for $250:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174922933296?

[MO]

As I view it, unless there is documentation for a factory/dealer warranty replacement CE, installing one as a substitute for a missing original engine is only slightly more desirable than a decked block. Personally, I think you should be looking for number three below.

This is how I see desirability for resale:
1- Original engine
2- Verified warranty replacement
3- Authenticated, correctly stamped engine suffix for car type (non matching numbers)
4- Correctly dated (in warranty period) CE block
5- Correctly dated block (no stampings or vin numbers)

[69rad]

So Mo, you are thinking a real DZ block?

Man those are Real pricey!

But I think I agree.  It would have to be a 010 block, in my book, I’ll see what I can find.

Thanks!!

[MO]

So Mo, you are thinking a real DZ block?

Man those are Real pricey!

But I think I agree.  It would have to be a 010 block, in my book, I’ll see what I can find.

Thanks!!

Yes, I think a real DZ block would be your best bet. I know they can be pricey, but you should recover that difference when or if you sell the car. While the 010 may be preferable to you, I'm not sure it would make any difference at resale which block you use.

Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.