NOS Engine

[z28z11]

Something I did not know. Is this a way we could identify a 302 assembled? With or without the balancer on. Maybe post some pics.

Better way to guess is the flywheel flange of the crank - easy to see even with the pan on, front cover on, balancer could be installed, too; flywheel flange notch is specific to the 1178 Z28 forging. Very easy to identify at a glance -

Regards,
Steve

[Stingr69]

The dampener was bottoming out, either on the first main journal or the getting hung up on one of the keys. For some reason I though the balancer went all the way on, nearly being flush with the timing chain cover. I'm about 3/8" off the timing cover now. Its on as far as she'll go.

Next I'm going to install the water pump and pulley's to see how that lines up.

I'll measure the 350 and 302 cranks and see how they stack up.

Remove keys and try installing damper again to see if that was the issue.  If it goes in farther, you know the keys were the culprit.

The other possible issue is how far the bottom timing gear has been installed.  If gear is not on all the way, you will be too far out on the damper when it stops against the gear. That pushes the damper and pulleys out of alignment.  When your damper contacts the gear, thats the bottom.  One side of the gear has a relief for the radius on the crank but the other side of the gear typically does not.

Crank snout length is not the problem here. it does not play a part in this issue.

[Dusk_Blue_Z]

you can tell I'm an amateur. Now that you mention the timing gear, that's probably the 0.5" difference I'm getting. Thanks.

[Stingr69]

If the gear is not flush with the crank land, it is not on far enough. Be sure the beveled side of the gear bore is facing the inside of the engine.

[Dusk_Blue_Z]

I mocked up the alternator, fan pulley, and installed the belt. Alignment looks great.

Can someone point me in the direction on how to remove the valve cover emblems?

[Dusk_Blue_Z]

Thought I'd share an update to the crate engine LT-1. Today was dyno day and she produced 369hp (6k) and 368 torque (4300) in stock trim (sans exhaust manifolds). Pretty close to the factory ratings.

Sprung a few oil leaks, but was glad to see this one come alive.

[Kelley W King]

I have always felt the GM guys did a good job with their HP engines. The LT1, L79, L78, ect. It just seems the factory heads ,intake, cam, and carb just work together well for power and streetability. Getting a little 302 to do what it does and still make a beer run is hard to beat.

[firstgenaddict]

White vinegar works great... also CITRIC ACID comes in dry powder form used for CANNING vegetables.
One jar at Walmart is about $2 and will make about 2 gallons of rust remover solution... works like EVAPORUST and is about 25X cheaper. 

[69Z28-RS]

If the gear is not flush with the crank land, it is not on far enough. Be sure the beveled side of the gear bore is facing the inside of the engine.

I've never examined the back side of the crank gear (if I ever did it was so long ago I can't recall it).   The little 'timing dot' has to be the outside in order to align the crank and cam gears, so the bevel must be on the inside if one does that...

[Stingr69]

If the gear is not flush with the crank land, it is not on far enough. Be sure the beveled side of the gear bore is facing the inside of the engine.

I've never examined the back side of the crank gear (if I ever did it was so long ago I can't recall it).   The little 'timing dot' has to be the outside in order to align the crank and cam gears, so the bevel must be on the inside if one does that...

True. I had trouble once with pulley alignment on a build and had to tear it back apart to look at everything.  That crank radius/gear bevel observation came after a lot of head scratching.  If someone else is having issues, something is probably installed wrong.