Master Cylinder Resleeving

[stovebolt]

Has anyone had any experience, good or bad, with Brake & Equipment Warehouse in Minneapolis, regarding master cylinder resleeving? Quality? Workmanship? reliability? I will have mine done soon and would appreciate any comments. Thanks, Joe

[1968RSZ28]

Nope, but a lot of CRG members recommend White Post...  http://www.whitepost.com/

From the White Post website...

•Our rebuilt cylinders are better than new, they will never rust, pit or corrode, because we install brass sleeves.
•We disassemble the cylinders, glassbead clean, bore oversize, press in the brass sleeve and size them to original specifications. We rebuild your cylinder with all necessary new parts and apply an original finish on the outside.
•We rebuild vacuum boosters for all cars and trucks.
•We also reline brake shoes and disc brake pads.
•All work is guaranteed with a written Lifetime Warranty.
•Quick Service - Same Day & Overnight. (Normally 2 to 3 Days.)
•When you receive your rebuilt brake cylinders, they're ready to bolt on your car, and you'll never have to touch them again!

Paul

[NAPA68]

Nope, but a lot of CRG members recommend White Post...  http://www.whitepost.com/

From the White Post website...

•Our rebuilt cylinders are better than new, they will never rust, pit or corrode, because we install brass sleeves.
•We disassemble the cylinders, glassbead clean, bore oversize, press in the brass sleeve and size them to original specifications. We rebuild your cylinder with all necessary new parts and apply an original finish on the outside.
•We rebuild vacuum boosters for all cars and trucks.
•We also reline brake shoes and disc brake pads.
•All work is guaranteed with a written Lifetime Warranty.
•Quick Service - Same Day & Overnight. (Normally 2 to 3 Days.)
•When you receive your rebuilt brake cylinders, they're ready to bolt on your car, and you'll never have to touch them again!

Paul

I have used White Post many times and have been happy every single one!

Tim

[Stingr69]

I used Apple Hydraulics to re-sleeve my master cylinder.  Pics are in the master cylinder cover thread. Very nice work.

-Mark.

[Mike S]

I used Apple Hydraulics to re-sleeve my master cylinder.  Pics are in the master cylinder cover thread. Very nice work.

-Mark.

That's the place that did mine too. It's local so it was just a short car ride. He does brass or SS sleeves. I opted for brass.

Mike

[BillOhio]

Apple also did mine

[montgomg]

Brake and Equipment out of Minneapolis has done at least 2 master cylinders and 8 wheel cylinders for me.
Work was done promptly, well and reasonably priced.

[69Z28-RS]

Brake and Equipment out of Minneapolis has done at least 2 master cylinders and 8 wheel cylinders for me.
Work was done promptly, well and reasonably priced.

I didn't see any pricing on their website, but I watched their video, and they seem well equipped and capable at a great variety of machine shop tasks..  If I were closer, I'd certainly let them do a job or two for me.

[stovebolt]

Resleeving only for my 1968 dual reservoir 1" bore master cylinder was quoted at $115. They use a stainless steel sleeve. And thanks for all the input.

[stovebolt]

Some rebuilders use stainless steel sleeves, others use brass. What are the pros and cons of each or is there no difference?

[ko-lek-tor]

Some rebuilders use stainless steel sleeves, others use brass. What are the pros and cons of each or is there no difference?

Either is fine, IMO. You just want a good true non pitted surface and either will work. I give the nod to stainless as it is harder and will not easily nick, but it is not like you will be abusing the M.C., so either one is OK. A side note, I believe the stainless sleeve can be thinner (have never compared) so less material removed from your cylinder. Again, a moot point as long as work is done correctly, IE: machining and alignment and pressing, either will give you a new surface that won't corrode or pit or wear out.

[69Z28-RS]

White Post has done two master cylinders for me over a 20 yr period, and each time I asked if they could/would do it in stainless; each time, they replied they ONLY use Brass.  I'm sure there's some reason for that; my suspicion is that it's a bit softer than SS, therefore easier to hone to the correct diameter (but I'm only guessing).  The only other aspect I can imagine is possibly thermal expansion coefficient differences but both have been used successfully in many MC, WC, and calipers...

[Mike S]

 The place by me (Apple Hydraulics) recommended brass too and that is what I had gone with. I believe it had something to do with easier to insert and hone but I can't remember for sure though reading the above post by Gary did sound familiar.

Mike