Benchtest - 67 RS headlight motor

[Danishbanker]

I think, my hideaway headlight motor is dead - how do I benchtest it ?

Thanks /Claus

[janobyte]

1 lead from the motor to pos.        ( 12v supply, battery)
1 lead from motor to neg.

Should run continuous, either way. If it does not, motor is bad.

If ok, gets a little more confusing: limit switches, relays.  But not too confusing!  Can walk you through---steve

[Mike S]

I'm doing this from memory but I believe there is a rectangular shape box under a shrink wrapped type cover. In that box is a thermo switch that was supposed to open if the motor mechanics jammed (normally ice conditions). If the motor doesn't move with the steps mentioned by Janobyte then you will have to bypass the thermo switch to see if the problem is bad motor windings.

Mike

[Danishbanker]

1 lead from the motor to pos.        ( 12v supply, battery)
1 lead from motor to neg.

There are 2 wires right ? batteri pos to one and batteri neg to the other ?? does it matter which one ??

This is my right headligt door.

The left one stoped working this week after I have been working under the dash :-((.. isnŽt there any wires I should check there ? and where ?

Thanks for your time

/Claus

[Kelley W King]

If my memory is right, the 2 wires are open close. The neg. or ground goes to the case.

[janobyte]

Check the motor 1st, then work your way back.

If motor ok ,see if you have power (12 v) at the wires you plugged in to your motor.


There are 2 limit switches per side When fully open , or fully closed a small round "push button" is depressed thereby opening the circuit to your motor and stopping it

Under driver's side fender are 4 relays. 2 for the right,2 for the left.


If one side is working and not the other sounds like you are getting power TO the relays.
If your motor works on the bench test, see if you have power  to and from the limit switches.

Search around on the site ,I think somebody downloaded the 67 hideaway headlight wiring schematic/instructions.
Mines in my build book, and a buddy has it.

If you run in to a dead-end , reply, and I'll  scan and post it---steve

[Danishbanker]

Thanks Steve

IŽll look into it in the weekend - Would it be okey to remove the headlight bulbs and messure power directly in the connectors to the headlight door motor ?

/Claus

[janobyte]

If my memory is right, the 2 wires are open close. The neg. or ground goes to the case.

Think your memory is ok !

[Danishbanker]

I am back - and I know its been a while, sorry :-((

I have benchtested the new right motor - it Works
I have tested the power in the harnes to the motor - it Works
but it still do not open and close :-((

If the light is on I can easely move the door back and forward.

On the left door: if the light is on and I manual close the door, it automatecly opens Again.

Any idea where I must look now on the right and left side lightdoor ??

Thanks
Claus

[Kelley W King]

You could have multiple problems. I would remove both motors and check the doors for binding. then in the half open position both limit switches should let power through to test the power to the connector in both open and close modes. If you door linkage is binding the motor won,t appear to work. If the the motors are not new while off I would open the transmission part and clean and regrease the gears and the shaft. After that bench run them to work it in. On my vette (same set up) one side was always slower until it stopped. After the the clean and regrease it was faster than the other so I had to pull it and redo it to get the speeds to match.  The limit switches also tend to corrode and sometimes work intermittingly. An electrical spray contact cleaner sprayed around the button while pushing in and out several times sometimes helps. Also while testing everything on the car you might want to put a charger on the battery. They can drain power quickly and then things get eradic. Many people have have pulled a lot of hair trouble shooting the systems. Also clean where the ground screws goes to bare metal at both ends and wirebrush the screw eyelets to insure your grounds are secure. Testors will sometimes show a ground but it goes away under load