Messages

1

Originality / Re: Turn signal cancel cam

« on: September 09, 2024, 07:27:41 PM »

Someone on Camaros.net replied with the part number GM part 3901618 which appears to be the correct part for my application and appears to be available at some of the Corvette vendors. But, I got the new Boyne style switch before I saw that post and I was able to get it all working again using the incorrect cancel cam I bought by cutting the horn contact post to the correct length and putting the steering column compression spring under rather than over the cam. As expected the right turn cancels sooner than the left but that isn't a big deal and may be by design a soft right turn like merging onto a highway should cancel early anyway.

Anyway, it all works again and is like new! Thanks to all who responded.

Mike

2

Originality / Re: Turn signal cancel cam

« on: September 08, 2024, 08:56:02 PM »

The only number on mine is 512-4. When I get the new switch, I’m going to try getting a repro to work. The recess for the steering wheel compression spring is on the opposite side, the post that holds the horn contact is too long, and the canceling tabs are in the wrong position. But I think it might just work with some simple modifications. The exact version I have doesn’t seem to be available. My original may also still work if I can use enough epoxy to keep it from falling apart.

3

Originality / Re: Turn signal cancel cam

« on: September 07, 2024, 08:25:22 PM »

GM part number is 399294!

Thanks but searching for that part number also finds the wrong style. I think those fit the Delco style turn signal switch. I’m starting to conclude that nobody reproduces the one I need.

4

Originality / Re: Turn signal cancel cam

« on: September 07, 2024, 08:19:28 PM »

This turn signal cancelling cam is supposed to be for a 1967 Camaro with a tilt steering wheel:

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/pontiac/firebird/parts/CM5149.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqt4WjPCrnHK7zXkVcKT6yuJUKBif26M9zYlz4eSQiFYqFQX24Mwe4

Thanks, but that is the wrong one for the Boyne style switch. Those plastic bumps near the top are too close together.

5

Originality / Turn signal cancel cam

« on: September 07, 2024, 03:35:00 PM »

Does anyone know where to get a turn signal cancel cam that will function correctly on a 67 with tilt column? It has the Boyne style switch (red) which uses a cancel cam that has the 2 bumps wider apart than the style that is sold as a reproduction. I can’t find it anywhere and I’ve tried to repair mine with epoxy to fix the cracks but it looks like the plastic is too far gone.

6

Maintenance / Re: Vapor lock?

« on: July 02, 2017, 03:23:38 AM »

Hmm... yes i see. Right now the distributor is cast iron with a pertronic ignition module... probably the stock internals other than that.

Its cool out today so no issues with my drive.  I will set it up to 16 degrees in the crank and see how it goes..

Thanks for the direction

I wouldn't do 16 initial unless I knew what my total would be with that and you can't know that until you map your advance curve.  It's important you set it up right to avoid detonation. I was suggesting that 10 is likely still a bit low and you may need to dial in your vacuum advance to get the proper advance at idle which will help with your hot carb issue by keeping the engine cooler. L78 steve was suggesting that may be your issue back in post #7.

7

Maintenance / Re: Vapor lock?

« on: July 01, 2017, 11:05:43 PM »

Bumped up the timing to 10 degrees on the crank... hope to get out for a drive today. I ran the same set up last summer with no issues of the gas boiling in the carb.

The distributor was bumped over the winter so i hope that is the problem.. although i like the idea of blocking the ports.  Just don't want to take the intake off... again..... haha

What i would like to do is get to 36 degrees total timing but i gave no tach to see if i have ended the mechanical advance

Depends on how much advance is in the distributor now but likely it isn't 26 degrees.  Probably more like 20 so you'd only be at 30 total now.  You should get a timing light with built in tach to find out when you're timing is all in and how much advance your distributor is providing. The timing on my stock L30 with original iron heads running 93 octane pump gas is best at 14 initial, 34 all in at 2800-3000 rpm and vacuum advance restricted to 11 degrees from manifold vacuum. That puts it right on the edge of detonation at WOT but it runs great and stays cool all the time.

8

Maintenance / Re: Vapor lock?

« on: June 26, 2017, 11:23:50 AM »

Your carb is too hot and it sounds like the fuel is boiling. You don't say what intake you have but make sure you have the right gaskets between the intake and carb.  Here's a post on the subject from the Corvette forums:  https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c1-and-c2-corvettes/1978466-q-jet-carb-base-gasket-tech-info-the-hot-slot-manifold-problem.html

9

Maintenance / Re: hesitation while driving

« on: June 21, 2017, 04:25:02 PM »

The mechanic says he can see the carb leaking and that it needs rebuilt. It was recently rebuilt maybe 4 years ago, and has very few miles on it, but I imagine this can happen when a car sits for an extended time. I'll ask him to show me when I pick it up.

I can't find my receipt or any communication I had with whoever rebuilt it last. Suggestions on a reputable company?

Where is it leaking?  May be just a stuck float but leaking fuel onto a hot manifold is a fire hazard.  Get that fixed ASAP. Lars Grimsrud, Henry Olsen, and Cliff Ruggles are 3 of the best experts on Q-Jets and tuning. Lars rebuilt mine and it operates perfectly.

10

Research Topics & Reports / Re: First Gen Camaro radiator dates

« on: June 18, 2017, 05:09:19 PM »

1967 RS Coupe w/ AC: 7/2A, LOS, L30, IH OG, A, no tag

11

Originality / Re: Importance of a Correctly Dated Carburetor

« on: May 29, 2017, 10:06:57 PM »

Lars Grimsrud has a paper titled How to Tune a Q-Jet that covers that. Also, Cliff Ruggles book How to Rebuild and Modify Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors.

This is a 5 year old thread.  You may get more responses by starting a new one.

12

Mild Modifications / Re: Any minor modifications that can have slight benefits to power?

« on: February 04, 2017, 10:51:52 PM »

I agree that timing and tuning are the easy and cheap things to do that can make a huge difference if they aren't right.  Most of it can be done with minimal tools and a clear understanding of what you're doing. If you're new to this as I was a few years back you can get up to speed by reading JohnZ's timing papers on this site (including the one Kurt posted above) or Lars Grimsrud's papers on timing and tuning.  I ended up sending out my carb and distributor for rebuild and setup to Lars because I wanted them done right by an expert. My old 327 performs way better than it ever has.

I also just replaced the timing chain and based on how loose it was, come springtime I'm expecting some improvements from that (not as simple) project. Might be something else you want to check before doing major mods.

13

General Discussion / Re: 67 ss/rs with ac. Brake modulator on frame question

« on: December 17, 2016, 03:56:49 AM »

I have the valve on a '67 LOS 02A L30 RS with AC and drum/drum

14

Restoration / Re: Residual Pressure Valve won't fit into repro master cylinder!

« on: November 30, 2016, 11:06:54 PM »

Although its speculative, the last post in the Chevelle forum post above may be the best explanation I've heard for possibly explaining why some people might get decent braking without RPVs, why vendors don't know about them, and why repro manufacturers have abandoned their use in MC ports.

15

Restoration / Re: Residual Pressure Valve won't fit into repro master cylinder!

« on: November 30, 2016, 10:36:38 PM »

Some feel the RPV is not necessary but if GM included them to begin with, the Chassis Service Manual specifically tells you to use them in a drum brake port, and JohnZ says they should be there, that's enough to convince me that I should have one in my master cylinder.

Agreed on all three points.