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Messages - Blown 67 RS

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Restoration / Re: 1967 front spoiler braces

« on: May 30, 2008, 04:51:47 PM »

Actually you should have all the brackets on since the spoiler will flex and possibly drag at high speeds due to aerodynamic forces. Then the smaller bolts holes will start to tear where it bolts to the lower valance. It's happened to me.

Also, I can see your point about hitting it and possibly damaging your fenders. Being so low I've clipped mine many times. So many that I always have a new spare on hand. But if you do clip it hard on steep driveways or curbs, the bracket will usually tear away from the plastic holes. I actually broke one of the brackets before. It was completely missing except for the small flat part bolted to the fender. No damage to the fender though.

-Scott

General Discussion / Re: Wanted: pics of your 68 RS

« on: May 30, 2008, 04:37:06 PM »

Cool- good luck with the site. Here's a pic for ya:

More here:
http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/showgallery.php?cat=3014

-Scott

General Discussion / Re: Found a 67 Camaro here in Germany For Sale with this VIN but I am confused

« on: May 30, 2008, 04:32:17 PM »

Looks all original. 4 speed car with console. Deluxe interior. Sport Wheel. And power brakes; could it have the 4 piston front calipers? And I wonder what the odd emblems were that are missing from the front fenders? There doesn't appear to be any SS designation anywhere on the car though. Seems a rare car indeed despite that.

Maintenance / Re: Electrical issue with directonals and back-up lamps (68-RS)

« on: April 30, 2008, 10:10:42 PM »

Your flasher is on the ground loop and needs resistance to operate correctly. Defintely sounds like a ground issue. And the dash wiring is where I would start. It is possible that your turn signals were grounding through another access and you disturbed that by monkeying with the top switch. If you have a bad ground, the circuit will find its own ground or fail. Your body is the ground for most lighting bases, so I would even double check your frame to body ground strap in the search since you said you lost the reverse lights also.

Q: When you get power by using the meter, where are you grounding the negative lead? A volt meter will show power but the bulbs will draw more current and that is where the bad ground can/will fail.

Q: Do the indicators light bright when you manually flick the signal lever?

Q: Did you by chance use any crimped eyelets for a ground strap when you installed the new wiring?

General Discussion / Re: 1.94 or 2.02 over the counter heads is there a???

« on: April 30, 2008, 08:43:00 PM »

Are you sure that one head casting number isn't 3891 or 3991? 3861 is an odd number.

3973370 = 350 head with 1.72 intakes

All factory SBC heads were pressed-in studs prior to 1970.
If they had accessory holes it was after 1968. (Except some truck heads with larger holes)
Heads with 2.02 intake valve made between 1964 and 1970 had press in studs.

http://www.chevytech.com/3c10o12.html

http://www.chevy-camaro.com/chevy-camaro-chevy-head-codes.asp?group=1

General Discussion / Re: Headlight door on my 67 RS...

« on: April 29, 2008, 04:05:38 PM »

Claus here is more help. See if this helps you diagnose the problem. I found all my components at D&R Camaro and found the motor units new at a Swap Meet for @ $90 each so it helps to shop around.

Wiring diagram:
http://www.pozziracing.com/Media/67rswire2.jpg

Tips:
http://www.pozziracing.com/67_rs_headlight_doors.htm

More Tips:
http://www.retro-electro.net/FAQ.html

General Discussion / Re: Headlight door on my 67 RS...

« on: April 29, 2008, 03:47:20 PM »

Primary causes of failure:
The first place to look are the motors themselves. The factory motors and gear units were crap. Plastic gears and rusty hinge components caused the gears to strip early on in these systems. Ice, mud and other debris would cause the hidden doors to jam. The factory 10 amp breaker for the electrical was too strong for the weak motors and gears and usually never tripped before the gears themselves stripped or the motors burned out. Poor sealing of the motor units allowed moisture to enter the units and caused premature damage.

Do you know if the motor units are the original ones? Have you loosened or disconnected the actuator arm from the motor unit in order to manually move the door? If not, the gears may be stripped which means you need a replacement motor unit.

It has been a while since I did mine so I'm not familiar with access to everything off the top of my head, but I would start by testing the motor. Get a test light and disconnect the plug going to the motor. Ground your test light and then use the probe end to touch the prongs in the plug end coming from the main harness. Have someone turn on the lights (with the key ON) and see if you get power to the test light. Since you said one side is working I'm betting you get power to the dead side. If not, it gets more complicated tracing the break in the power source. It could be a stuck contact switch for the door or a bad relay or breaker. All of the headlight door wiring runs to a central mount containing 3 relays and a circuit breaker. Without seeing your car in person it is very difficult to diagnose and offer help online. It could be as simple as a connection.

While you have the plug for the motor unit disconnected, find a way to send power to it with a test wire or stand alone battery. At least you will know if the motor unit is working.

I was able to find a wiring diagram online when I rebuilt my door set up. I'm willing to bet someone around here has one or I can search my computer at home for it.

-Scott

General Discussion / Re: Headlight door on my 67 RS...

« on: April 28, 2008, 08:33:14 PM »

That is a nice RS you have.

There could be a number of things wrong: You have to determine if the problem is mechanical or electrical.

- Does the motor make noise when you turn on the headlights? If YES then it could be a bad gearbox or lever loose. If NO then you need to determine if it is the motor or the power coming to the motor. That could be any number things ranging from simple connections to blown relays or breakers. Since the one side does work that limits the areas of suspicion.

- Can you move the door manually? Maybe that way you could move it out of the way and still have headlights until you fix the problem. If the door won't move then you have something binding.

The newer set ups have a slipper clutch that you set the tension on. Not sure about original components but I don't think they had that option. The 1967 doors were problematic and jammed a lot. If they jammed they often stripped the gears or blew the motors.

-Scott

Restoration / Re: 1967 front spoiler braces

« on: April 25, 2008, 09:10:57 PM »

For a '67 front spoiler kit you should get 3 brackets; 2 for the ends and one for the center.

-Scott

Mild Modifications / Re: Cut the coil springs

« on: April 25, 2008, 08:56:53 PM »

Word to the wise: go with dropped spindles if you can afford them.

Cutting a coil spring has a lot disadvantages:

By cutting coils, the spring becomes stiffer and you will get a rough ride.
To make the spring sit in the saddle in the correct position you have to cut full coils.
If you only cut half a coil the spring can shift and creak.
Once you cut the coil it loses some of its tensile strength and the spring will sag; eventually your car won't sit level.

I cut the coils on my car to drop it years ago. It looks cool but rides like crap and the front end really shakes a lot over bumps. One side settled more than the other and I found myself adding spring rubber segments like the ones they use in NASCAR to level the front end. The coil then loses even more flex. I'm changing this over to dropped spindles this summer.

-Scott

General Discussion / New guy saying hello!

« on: April 25, 2008, 08:09:19 PM »

New guy saying hello-

Man lots of cool info here! I was looking for information on 67 Camaro shoulder belts and came across this site.

I realize most members here are about original restorations but wanted to share my Hot Rod 1967 RS with you guys. It is an original RS, 327, 4 speed car with a Deluxe Interior option. I am the third owner but haven’t done any VIN number tracking. I did not get the original drive train with the car when I bought it in 1989 and the drive train that came with the car was shot. The car was given a frame off restoration, with the bottom of the car painted the same as the exterior. Paint is Centari Single Step Guards Red with a Chrysler based grey metallic on all frame and suspension components. The car was restored in 1989 during the Pro Street Era when “tubs” were in, yet I refrained from cutting the car apart in hopes that it would retain its value over the years. I took a lot of crap from guys saying “tub it” but I’m glad I never chopped it up.

Today the car runs a heavily modified ‘73 LT-1 355 fed by a Dyers prepped 6-71 GMC blower forcing the AF mixture in at 10 psi of boost. The engine puts out somewhere @ 550 HP and will spin at 7,500 RPM all day. It is very reliable and can be driven in traffic all day with minimal issues. Power goes through a race modded T-400 using a 2500 stall and shifted with a Hurst 1/4 Stick. Power gets to the ground (barely) through a factory 12 bolt rear axle, built up with Moser axles and components housing GM 3.73 gears. The car has been lowered @ 3-4 inches and runs frame connectors and urethane body mounts and suspension bushings with adjustable drag shocks. I also added a front disc brake conversion to it using components from a 1970 GTO and a later model master cylinder and it made a world of difference in braking from the factory 4 wheel drum set up.

I used to go to a lot of car shows and spent many years (and brain cells) at the Car Craft Street Machine Nats. Now I just take it out on warm days and scare old ladies. It gets a lot of attention. I built the car myself and had it nearly 20 years. It still looks amazing since being painted 18 years ago. Hope you like my ride.