1
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro body tag?
« on: July 04, 2024, 01:50:20 AM »
That's one of those fake body tags from TT.com made in the early 2000"s - not even close
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2
Garage Talk / Re: Coker tire failure
« on: July 03, 2024, 01:34:07 AM »
That Life of the tread warantee reminds me of this lady... lol
https://www.facebook.com/reel/2163042557398521
https://www.facebook.com/reel/2163042557398521
3
General Discussion / Re: 1967 seat belt clips
« on: May 31, 2024, 01:22:20 AM »
My 04A LOS 67 Pace car does not have clips.
4
General Discussion / Re: A/C drier bracket color
« on: January 04, 2024, 06:23:58 AM »
Black - Low Gloss
5
Research Topics & Reports / Re: Under hood light pics
« on: December 14, 2023, 03:34:25 PM »
Looks good. Remember, the lamp is always mounted on the same side as the dipstick...
6
Research Topics & Reports / Re: Under hood light pics
« on: December 13, 2023, 01:29:39 AM »
one more
7
Research Topics & Reports / Re: Under hood light pics
« on: December 13, 2023, 01:28:37 AM »
Here are pictures of the 1969 Underhood lamp
8
Research Topics & Reports / Re: Under hood light pics
« on: December 13, 2023, 01:20:30 AM »
here are pictures for the 1967 and 1968 underhood lamp.
9
General Discussion / Re: Wiper motor with XXXXXXXX
« on: September 23, 2023, 04:11:28 PM »
the actual pumps from those years and different models were mostly the same. if one was needed for a different application or model, it could have been reconfigured and the new part number was stamped. Happened pretty often with many of the different components. Probably the squirter nozzle was changed, so the entire unit would have had to be re stamped.
10
Restoration / Re: Where did the mice collect this?
« on: January 05, 2023, 12:36:10 AM »
I generally don't have a rodent problem anymore.... lol
11
General Discussion / Re: Hood Insulation "keepers"
« on: September 28, 2021, 11:33:14 PM »
The clips certainly were a challenge for me back in 2018. They are still holding great with never an issue.
Here was the thread back then that visited many solutions. ---> http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=16256.msg155879#msg155879
Here was the thread back then that visited many solutions. ---> http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=16256.msg155879#msg155879
12
General Discussion / Re: 1969 Z28 Brake Booster clevice alignment procedure
« on: July 16, 2019, 01:00:37 AM »
Install the Booster assembly first.
Go under the dash, and turn the push rod till the rod puts the clevis in the correct position for the pin to go through..
Tighten the nut so the clevis does not move.
The pedal should be high enough to push against the brake light switch.
Install your clevis pin, and use the special locking wedge retainer thingy. You really don't want that part to come undone - EVER.
If needed you can adjust the light switch till you have your personal desired activation height..
Now with MC loosely in place - install the brake lines to the MC. I like to have the lines in place before I bolt down the master cylinder. - just seems easier
Bleed the lines. Start the car check break pedal function. Make sure your brake lights come on when you press the pedal, and make sure that your pedal does not hit the floor. Check fluid level, and look for leaks. Piece of cake....
Go under the dash, and turn the push rod till the rod puts the clevis in the correct position for the pin to go through..
Tighten the nut so the clevis does not move.
The pedal should be high enough to push against the brake light switch.
Install your clevis pin, and use the special locking wedge retainer thingy. You really don't want that part to come undone - EVER.
If needed you can adjust the light switch till you have your personal desired activation height..
Now with MC loosely in place - install the brake lines to the MC. I like to have the lines in place before I bolt down the master cylinder. - just seems easier
Bleed the lines. Start the car check break pedal function. Make sure your brake lights come on when you press the pedal, and make sure that your pedal does not hit the floor. Check fluid level, and look for leaks. Piece of cake....
13
Originality / Re: 69 Booster Replacement
« on: June 18, 2019, 02:22:35 AM »
easy removal. 15 minutes tops.
1) un-clip the booster rod from the pedal bracket.
2) remove the 2 master cylinder nuts and push the assembly forward- (no need to loosen the lines)
3) remove the 4 nuts with a longish 9/16" closed end wrench. (all done from above)
4) pull the booster.
Piece of cake....
1) un-clip the booster rod from the pedal bracket.
2) remove the 2 master cylinder nuts and push the assembly forward- (no need to loosen the lines)
3) remove the 4 nuts with a longish 9/16" closed end wrench. (all done from above)
4) pull the booster.
Piece of cake....
14
Garage Talk / Re: Car Lift
« on: June 14, 2019, 04:53:37 PM »
I've had my Mohawk 2 post lift for over 15 years. With an 8 ft. garage ceiling, the wife's car can still fit between the hanging down wheels.
A 4 post would never allow that. - - No, I can't stand completely upright underneath, so I use a reclining office chair - works just fine.
A 4 post would never allow that. - - No, I can't stand completely upright underneath, so I use a reclining office chair - works just fine.
15
Originality / Re: Trunk decal for posi traction
« on: February 14, 2019, 09:43:20 PM »What kind of adhesive would you recommend for the plain paper back, Jeff?
Mike
Just drizzle a little contact cement from home depot. It is yellowish.
