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Maintenance / Re: Survey Request -- Z28 302 Cold Engine Starting Procedure
« on: November 07, 2024, 12:17:38 AM »
My 1969 Z28 has the original drivetrain, original distributor, date correct recently restored 4053 (not original), original intake and heads. I assume the internals are original, but I have not verified. I try to drive it once a week or at least once every two weeks. The more frequently I drive it, the easier it is to start and it seems to run and drive better.
To specifically respond to you questions:
1. I believe the fuel level in the primary float bowl is low, but I have not checked the level, there is no detectable leakage
2. I do not add fuel to the primary bowl other than with the starter and mechanical fuel pump
3. Yes, 5 pumps @ 100%
4. I do not touch the accelerator when the starter is engaged to avoid backfiring (yes, I have experienced backfiring if I operate the accelerator while
the starter is engaged)
5. I do not touch the accelerator when the starter is engaged to avoid backfiring
6. It does not run “clean” when it first fires, pump accelerator about 50% 2 or 3 times until it runs “clean”
7. Brief stops to get fuel, I only turn the key and it fires up and runs “clean”, for several hour stops 2 pumps @ 100% before turning the key, for next
day starts I use the 5 step procedure below
After much trial and error, here is the starting procedure I use:
1. Crank the starter for 5 seconds, turn the key to stop for a second
2. Crank the starter for 5 seconds, turn the key to stop, adds fuel to the primary fuel bowl and begins oil circulation
3. With the key in the off position to avoid operating the cowl solenoid, pump the accelerator 100% 5 times
4. Without touching the accelerator, turn key to start, fires up but struggles
5. Pump accelerator about 50% 2 or 3 times until it runs “clean”
Based on the 55 year old dash tach, fast idle is about 1,800 and normal idle is about 1,100. I rarely take it to 6,000, but pulls hard 3,000 – 6,000. One problem I have is the exhaust has an extremely strong smell of unburned fuel to the point of making your eyes burn and clothes reek even though cylinder compression and spark plug appearance are normal.
To specifically respond to you questions:
1. I believe the fuel level in the primary float bowl is low, but I have not checked the level, there is no detectable leakage
2. I do not add fuel to the primary bowl other than with the starter and mechanical fuel pump
3. Yes, 5 pumps @ 100%
4. I do not touch the accelerator when the starter is engaged to avoid backfiring (yes, I have experienced backfiring if I operate the accelerator while
the starter is engaged)
5. I do not touch the accelerator when the starter is engaged to avoid backfiring
6. It does not run “clean” when it first fires, pump accelerator about 50% 2 or 3 times until it runs “clean”
7. Brief stops to get fuel, I only turn the key and it fires up and runs “clean”, for several hour stops 2 pumps @ 100% before turning the key, for next
day starts I use the 5 step procedure below
After much trial and error, here is the starting procedure I use:
1. Crank the starter for 5 seconds, turn the key to stop for a second
2. Crank the starter for 5 seconds, turn the key to stop, adds fuel to the primary fuel bowl and begins oil circulation
3. With the key in the off position to avoid operating the cowl solenoid, pump the accelerator 100% 5 times
4. Without touching the accelerator, turn key to start, fires up but struggles
5. Pump accelerator about 50% 2 or 3 times until it runs “clean”
Based on the 55 year old dash tach, fast idle is about 1,800 and normal idle is about 1,100. I rarely take it to 6,000, but pulls hard 3,000 – 6,000. One problem I have is the exhaust has an extremely strong smell of unburned fuel to the point of making your eyes burn and clothes reek even though cylinder compression and spark plug appearance are normal.